Tweed by Lentheric c1933

Tweed by Lentheric: launched in France in 1933. It was not introduced in America until 1935.

Tweed was released under the name Risque Tout when exported to Europe, Central and South America.

"Free, open stretches of heather or country meadow - the playful tug of wind - the friendly sun - a crisp tang in the air - a joy of living! Of such is the essence of Tweed, Parfum Exquis by Lentheric."

Tweed was "a featured maiden voyage perfume of the SS Normandie" which arrived in New York on June 3, 1935.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The original scent was a mossy fougere/chypre perfume with a distinctive herbal lavender note. It begins with a fresh, flowery, fruity top, followed by a classic floral heart, resting on a powdery base.

• Top notes: bergamot, grass note, neroli, thistle, thyme, arnica, celery, fruity note, orange geranium and violet
• Middle notes: fern, rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, narcissus, lilac, ylang-ylang, lavender, orange flower and magnolia 
• Base notes: cider, whiskey, tea, musk, styrax, honey, cinnamon, sandalwood, civet, leather, oakmoss, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla and vetiver

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Tweed de Lentheric: the mown meadows, the rare grass, the thistle sculpted like a cathedral chandelier, and also the tree ferns: this is what this water smells like that sports enthusiasts will love, with, in addition, a rear mast -taste of thyme, the bitterness of a hint of arnica, and like the nutty scent of fresh celery. The very smell of the golf green or the polo turf. It encourages effort, despite the the thick humming heat of wasps."

Combat, 1955:

"Tweed by Lentheric (scented cologne) - mown meadows, freshly watered grass, thistle sculpted like a cathedral chandelier, and also tree ferns, that's what this eau smells like for female golf champions, with, in addition, a dull aftertaste of thyme, the bitterness of a hint of arnica, the nutty scent of fresh celery, and the good smell of cider, whiskey and tea from the chalet where we rest."

I just tested a small amount on my skin from another sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells citric, very mossy while geranium and dry lavender break through. Then some cinnamon and carnation spice up the jasmine and rose. It lasts fairly long, spicy and herbal on a warm, woody base of sandalwood, vetiver, orris and patchouli which lay the groundwork for a little sweet benzoin and animalic civet. 

On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy, with only a short breath of the flowers, I feel that only on the skin does the floral notes become very apparent and much more enjoyable.

Bottles:

Tweed's parfum (extrait) was originally issued in a chunky crystal bottle imitating a Japanese "Koro" incense burner, fitted with an inner glass stopper topped with a wooden overcap. The name Tweed was silkscreened on the front of the bottle in black enamel serigraphy. The earlier bottles have inner glass stoppers, the later bottles have plastic or metal screw caps instead of the glass stoppers.

Contrary to belief, this high quality bottle was not made by Baccarat as it is not listed in the collector's book "Baccarat: The Perfume Bottles", put put by the glass company themselves.

Now if your bottle is missing it's label or hang tag stating the size, you can use this handy guide based on the approximate height of your bottle from base to top of stopper. Remember, the wooden stopper has gone through changes from an original two part piece made with a single block and a U shape underneath, to a single block construction in later years so this will affect the overall height of the bottle too, but not by too much.

• 1/8 oz stands about 1.75" tall
• 1/4 oz stands about 2" tall
• 1/2 oz stands about 2.25" tall
• 1 oz  stands 3" tall
• 2 oz stands 3.25" tall
• 4 oz 
• 8 oz stands 4.75" tall

In 1936 the prices for the parfum were as follows:

• Dram - 85 cents
• Purse size - $1.25
• 1/4 oz - $2.25
• 1/2 oz - $4.00
• 1 oz - $7.00
• 2 oz - $12.50
• 8 oz - $27.50

Also presented in a controlled bubble glass bottle, made in Czechoslovakia in 1935. This bottle can be found in different colors for different perfumes by Lentheric, cerulean blue for Miracle, softened rose for Lotus D'Or, green for Le Pirate, green for Au Fil de L'Eau, green for Foret Vierge, mirror clear for Asphodele, champagne for Tweed, Numero Douze in amber and Gardenia de Tahiti in orchid by 1936. Bottle stands 4"  tall and has a glass dauber.

Orrefors Crystal Parfum Flacons:

In 1936, a trio of crystal bottles was introduced manufactured by Orrefors to hold Tweed, Gardenia de Tahiti and Miracle. Each bottle was etched with a different design on the front and was topped by a frosted glass spire like stopper. The vaulted top box was covered in silver and blue paper. The bottles are often unmarked for the Orrefors name and simply had hang tags which were usually lost over time, so most people are unaware that these were used by Lentheric.

Bouquet Lentheric:

A long lasting cologne available in various sizes and bottle shapes.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Reformulated by Arthur Burnham and relaunched in association with Yardley (Fine Fragrances and Cosmetics) in 1992.

This version is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, orange and violets
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, lilac and magnolia 
• Base notes: sandalwood, civet and leather

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