Adam's Rib by Lentheric c1953

Launched in 1953, Adam's Rib by Lentheric emerged with a name both intriguing and evocative, steeped in biblical and cultural significance. The phrase "Adam's Rib" refers to the Biblical story of Eve being created from one of Adam’s ribs, symbolizing a deep, intrinsic connection between man and woman. This choice of name for the perfume suggests a celebration of feminine allure and a nod to a timeless, fundamental bond.

The name "Adam's Rib" conjures a variety of vivid images and emotions. It evokes the essence of creation and primal connection, hinting at something both ancient and eternally relevant. The perfume’s name implies a sense of deep-rooted sensuality and a connection to the foundational aspects of human nature, suggesting that its fragrance is meant to embody something both classic and deeply compelling.

In terms of scent, the name "Adam's Rib" would be interpreted as embodying an essence that is both rich and fundamentally appealing. The perfume, classified as a spicy aldehydic floral fougere, would translate this concept into a fragrance that combines warmth and sophistication with a touch of complexity. The dominant notes of jasmine and rose evoke a classic, opulent floral bouquet, while the aldehydic top notes add a sparkling, modern twist. The spiciness would contribute an element of intrigue and sensuality, aligning with the idea of something deeply rooted and profoundly engaging.

Women of the early 1950s would have related to Adam's Rib as a fragrance that is both elegant and bold. The period was marked by a shift towards more complex, multi-layered scents, reflecting the evolving tastes and social dynamics of the post-war era. The floral fougere style, with its balance of fresh, green, and spicy notes, was a popular trend that signified a modern approach to fragrance while retaining a touch of classic femininity. Adam's Rib fit well within this context, offering a sophisticated scent that resonated with the era’s desire for both innovation and timeless elegance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a spicy aldehydic floral fougere perfume with dominant jasmine and rose notes.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lavender, lemon, cardamom, clove
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, rose, honey, orris, ylang ylang
• Base notes: oakmoss, cedar, ambergris, patchouli, fern, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, tonka, labdanum, vetiver, cinnamon

The New Yorker, 1954:

"Lentheric's latest, Adam's Rib, is a spicy thing spiked with what smells like fern; $11 a half ounce."

Harper's Bazaar, 1954:

"Lentheric's sparkling perfume, "Adam's Rib." An ounce, $18.50."

The Diplomat - Issues 49-60, 1954:

 “Adam's Rib"—a slightly primitive, woodsy floral which gets better, and better, and better. Lentheric can take a bow. 

Harper's Bazaar - Page 318, 1955:

"Flowers and forest spice, a natural co-mingling of Lentheric's "Adam's Rib." One- ounce bottle (that's a gilt rib on top) $ 18.50."

Scent Profile:

Adam's Rib opens with a dazzling burst of aldehydes, their crisp, sparkling presence infusing the air with a bright, soapy freshness. The aldehydes create an immediate sense of clarity and sophistication, like the first breath of clean, cool air. This fresh start is soon complemented by the zesty aroma of bergamot, which adds a tangy citrus edge, and the sharp, invigorating scent of lemon, enhancing the overall brightness and vivacity of the perfume.

Lavender introduces a calming, herbal touch with its soothing, aromatic qualities, offering a serene contrast to the citrus and aldehydes. As this fresh, uplifting top layer settles, the warmth of cardamom emerges, its spicy, slightly sweet aroma adding a depth and complexity that mingles effortlessly with the subtle heat of clove. The clove’s rich, warm spiciness provides an intriguing undercurrent that subtly weaves through the perfume’s initial brightness.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a lush, floral tapestry. The dominant note of jasmine unfurls with its opulent, heady aroma, evoking a sense of luxurious sensuality and deep allure. Rose follows with its timeless, romantic fragrance, adding a layer of classic elegance and smooth, velvety richness. 

The spicy sweetness of carnation enhances this floral bouquet, bringing a touch of warmth and complexity. A hint of honey adds a golden, syrupy sweetness that complements the floral notes with its rich, amber-like quality. Orris introduces a soft, powdery texture, lending a sophisticated and refined element to the heart of the fragrance. Ylang-ylang adds an exotic, sweet floral note, enriching the bouquet with its heady and tropical charm.

In the base, Adam's Rib reveals its deeper, more resonant character. Oakmoss anchors the scent with its earthy, green richness, providing a mossy, forest-like depth that grounds the fragrance. Cedar contributes a dry, woody nuance, enhancing the perfume’s complexity with its clean, crisp quality.

 Ambergris imparts a warm, marine sweetness, adding a subtle, animalic richness that deepens the scent’s complexity. Patchouli brings an earthy, smoky edge that complements the base notes with its robust, musky depth. Fern adds a green, slightly herbaceous note, contributing to the fragrance’s overall freshness and complexity. 

Sandalwood offers a creamy, woody base that smooths out the composition, while musk provides a sensual, warm undertone that lingers on the skin. Tonka bean adds a sweet, vanilla-like richness that enhances the fragrance’s warmth. Labdanum imparts a resinous, slightly smoky depth, rounding out the base with its rich, complex aroma. Vetiver offers an earthy, woody quality that deepens the base, while cinnamon adds a final touch of spicy warmth, rounding out the fragrance with its rich, aromatic heat.

Together, these ingredients create a perfume that is both captivating and sophisticated, blending freshness, floral richness, and warm spiciness into a harmonious and complex composition.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Adam's Rib, a fragrance that captivated the mid-20th century with its distinctive blend of spicy aldehydic florals, was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains elusive. Its final moments in the perfume market were observed in 1967, a testament to its enduring appeal even as tastes began to shift.

The perfume’s unique composition, characterized by a sophisticated interplay of fresh aldehydes, vibrant citrus, and rich florals, continued to resonate with consumers long after its initial launch. Its spicy and warm profile, defined by dominant jasmine and rose notes, remained a signature of its era, reflecting the fragrance trends of the 1950s while still appealing to the evolving preferences of the 1960s.

The discontinuation of Adam's Rib marked the end of an era for this particular scent, but its presence in the market until 1967 highlights its lasting impact and the affection it garnered among its wearers. Despite its departure from the shelves, the perfume’s legacy endures in the memories of those who experienced its luxurious and evocative scent.