Tweed by Lentheric c1933

Lentheric's decision to name their 1933 fragrance "Tweed" reflects a deliberate attempt to capture the essence of sophistication, durability, and timeless elegance associated with the fabric of the same name. The word "Tweed" is derived from the English language, specifically referencing the hardy, woolen cloth traditionally woven in Scotland. By choosing this name, Lentheric sought to evoke images of the British countryside, characterized by rolling hills, misty moors, and a heritage steeped in tradition. The name "Tweed" would have resonated with the refined, worldly woman of the time, conjuring a sense of comfort, resilience, and understated luxury.

The word "Tweed" itself brings to mind images of autumnal landscapes, hunting lodges, and the refined yet rugged charm of the English gentry. It evokes emotions of warmth, sophistication, and a connection to nature. In scent, "Tweed" would be interpreted as a fragrance that is both classic and complex, with a balance of fresh and earthy notes that mirror the tactile sensation of the fabric. The mossy fougère/chypre composition of the fragrance, with its distinctive herbal lavender note, would have been a perfect olfactory representation of the texture and depth of tweed fabric. The fragrance's fresh, flowery, and fruity top notes, followed by a classic floral heart and resting on a powdery base, would evoke the natural landscapes where tweed was traditionally worn—lush, green, and vibrant, yet grounded and enduring.

Women of the 1930s would have related to a perfume called "Tweed" as a symbol of refined taste and modern sophistication. The early 1930s were a period marked by a return to classic elegance in fashion and lifestyle, following the exuberance of the 1920s. Tweed as a fabric was not only practical and durable but also carried connotations of aristocratic leisure and outdoor pursuits. A woman wearing "Tweed" would have been seen as someone who appreciated tradition while also embracing a sense of independence and confidence—a reflection of the changing roles of women during this time.

The period in which "Tweed" was launched was one of subtle shifts in the fragrance industry. While the 1920s had seen the rise of bold, often flamboyant perfumes, the 1930s brought a return to more restrained, classic compositions. "Tweed," with its mossy fougère/chypre structure and herbal lavender note, was unique in that it struck a balance between freshness and depth, offering a fragrance that was both invigorating and grounding. While other fragrances of the time might have leaned towards either the very floral or the very earthy, "Tweed" managed to encapsulate both, making it a standout yet in tune with the broader trends of its era.

In summary, "Tweed" by Lentheric was a fragrance that skillfully captured the essence of its namesake fabric, offering women a scent that was as enduring, refined, and versatile as the cloth itself. Launched during a period of elegance and restraint, it provided a perfect olfactory companion for the sophisticated woman of the 1930s, reflecting both her connection to tradition and her modern sensibilities.

"Free, open stretches of heather or country meadow - the playful tug of wind - the friendly sun - a crisp tang in the air - a joy of living! Of such is the essence of Tweed, Parfum Exquis by Lentheric."

SS Normandie:

"Tweed" by Lentheric held a prestigious place in history as one of the "featured maiden voyage perfumes" aboard the SS Normandie, a celebrated French ocean liner renowned for its elegance and luxury. The SS Normandie, considered a marvel of Art Deco design and engineering, was the epitome of sophistication and innovation during the 1930s. When it made its maiden voyage to New York, arriving on June 3, 1935, it carried not just passengers but also a carefully curated selection of luxury items, including Lentheric's "Tweed."

The decision to feature "Tweed" on this iconic voyage was a strategic move by Lentheric, aligning the fragrance with the cutting-edge elegance and grandeur that the SS Normandie represented. This association positioned "Tweed" not only as a perfume but as a symbol of the modern, stylish woman who embodied the spirit of transatlantic travel and the allure of the cosmopolitan lifestyle. The fragrance, with its distinctive mossy fougère/chypre profile and herbal lavender note, perfectly complemented the refined yet adventurous atmosphere aboard the liner.

Arriving in New York, the SS Normandie and its offerings, including "Tweed," were met with great fanfare. The inclusion of the perfume on this historic journey helped to cement its reputation in the American market as a fragrance of sophistication and international prestige. For women who encountered "Tweed" as part of this grand event, the perfume would have been seen as more than just a scent—it was a piece of the luxurious and glamorous experience that the SS Normandie symbolized.

In the broader context of 1935, the launch of "Tweed" in America via the SS Normandie was a masterstroke of marketing, blending the allure of luxury travel with the emerging trends in perfumery. The SS Normandie's maiden voyage was a significant cultural event, and by featuring "Tweed" in such a context, Lentheric ensured that the fragrance was associated with the height of elegance, modernity, and global appeal. This connection between the perfume and one of the most iconic ocean liners of the time added a layer of prestige that resonated with consumers, making "Tweed" not just a fragrance, but a symbol of the chic and the sophisticated.

When Lentheric expanded the distribution of their fragrance "Tweed" to Europe, Central, and South America, they encountered trademark conflicts that necessitated a change in the product's name. As a result, the fragrance was released under the name "Risque Tout" in these markets. This name, which translates from French as "Risk Everything" or "Dare All," introduced a different layer of meaning to the fragrance, infusing it with an added sense of daring and allure.

The name "Risque Tout" evokes a sense of boldness and adventure, appealing to the woman who is confident, daring, and unafraid to take risks. While "Tweed" conjured images of refined elegance and tradition, "Risque Tout" suggested a more audacious, seductive character. The fragrance's mossy fougère/chypre composition, with its herbal lavender note, fresh floral heart, and powdery base, remained the same, but the new name framed it in a context of intrigue and mystery.

For women in these regions, "Risque Tout" would have carried an allure of sophistication with an edge of rebellion, making it appealing to those who sought to express their individuality and embrace a more daring persona. This renaming also highlights the adaptability of Lentheric in navigating the complexities of international markets, where branding often needs to be tailored to fit local cultural and legal landscapes.

In the context of the 1930s, when "Risque Tout" was introduced, the name would have resonated with the era's shifting social dynamics. Women were increasingly stepping into roles that required greater independence and assertiveness, and a fragrance named "Risque Tout" would have embodied the spirit of a woman ready to defy conventions and embrace new opportunities. The fragrance thus maintained its unique character while adapting to the diverse cultural environments of Europe, Central, and South America, ensuring its appeal across different markets.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The original scent was a mossy fougere/chypre perfume with a distinctive herbal lavender note. It begins with a fresh, flowery, fruity top, followed by a classic floral heart, resting on a powdery base.

• Top notes: bergamot, grass note, neroli, thistle, thyme, arnica, celery, fruity note, orange geranium and violet
• Middle notes: fern, rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, narcissus, lilac, ylang-ylang, lavender, orange flower and magnolia 
• Base notes: cider, whiskey, tea, musk, styrax, honey, cinnamon, sandalwood, civet, leather, oakmoss, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla and vetiver

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Tweed de Lentheric: the mown meadows, the rare grass, the thistle sculpted like a cathedral chandelier, and also the tree ferns: this is what this water smells like that sports enthusiasts will love, with, in addition, a rear mast -taste of thyme, the bitterness of a hint of arnica, and like the nutty scent of fresh celery. The very smell of the golf green or the polo turf. It encourages effort, despite the the thick humming heat of wasps."

Combat, 1955:

"Tweed by Lentheric (scented cologne) - mown meadows, freshly watered grass, thistle sculpted like a cathedral chandelier, and also tree ferns, that's what this eau smells like for female golf champions, with, in addition, a dull aftertaste of thyme, the bitterness of a hint of arnica, the nutty scent of fresh celery, and the good smell of cider, whiskey and tea from the chalet where we rest."

I just tested a small amount on my skin from another sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells citric, very mossy while geranium and dry lavender break through. Then some cinnamon and carnation spice up the jasmine and rose. It lasts fairly long, spicy and herbal on a warm, woody base of sandalwood, vetiver, orris and patchouli which lay the groundwork for a little sweet benzoin and animalic civet. 

On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy, with only a short breath of the flowers, I feel that only on the skin does the floral notes become very apparent and much more enjoyable.

Scent Profile:

As I inhale the top notes of Tweed, a vivid tapestry of scents unfolds, beginning with the zesty brightness of bergamot. It offers a lively citrus spark, like the first rays of dawn breaking over dewy grass. This freshness is quickly joined by the green, slightly sweet aroma of the grass note, which conjures images of a meadow awakening under the morning sun. 

The neroli introduces a subtle, yet invigorating orange blossom note, delicate and slightly bitter, like freshly picked blossoms from a grove. Thistle adds an unexpected, earthy sharpness, a touch of the wild, while thyme weaves in a whisper of herbal warmth, grounding the composition with its aromatic, slightly peppery presence. The medicinal, almost floral scent of arnica brings a hint of the untamed, blending seamlessly with the crisp, slightly salty note of celery. 

The fruity note adds a layer of juicy sweetness, reminiscent of ripe summer fruits, while the orange geranium and violet round out the top with their sweet, floral nuances. The orange geranium offers a rosy, citrus-like scent with a touch of mint, while the violet imparts a soft, powdery sweetness that lingers like a gentle caress.

As the fragrance settles into its heart, the green, slightly damp scent of fern emerges, evoking the cool, shadowy depths of a forest. This verdant quality is intertwined with the rich, velvety scent of rose, a bloom that carries the weight of tradition and romance. Jasmine introduces an intoxicating floral sweetness, lush and opulent, filling the senses with its exotic allure. 

Carnation adds a spicy floral edge, with its clove-like warmth that dances lightly on the skin, while orris root brings a powdery, slightly woody iris scent, reminiscent of vintage cosmetics. The narcissus contributes a green, heady floral note, with a touch of bitterness that keeps the bouquet grounded. Lilac, with its soft, sweet floral essence, adds a delicate springtime freshness, while ylang-ylang introduces a creamy, exotic richness, its sweetness deepened by a hint of banana-like fruitiness. 

Lavender stands out with its clean, herbal profile, adding a soothing, aromatic quality that is both comforting and invigorating. The orange flower adds a fresh, citrusy sweetness, while magnolia contributes a creamy, slightly lemony floral note, as soft and luxurious as velvet.

As the scent deepens into its base, a complex, warm richness emerges. The crisp, dry scent of cider mingles with the smoky warmth of whiskey, creating a comforting, intoxicating backdrop that lingers like an evening spent by the fire. The soft, tannic aroma of tea adds an air of refinement, while musk introduces a sensual, animalistic warmth that ties the base together. 

Styrax adds a balsamic, resinous sweetness, while honey drizzles a golden, sticky warmth into the mix. The spicy warmth of cinnamon adds a festive, comforting note, its sweetness balanced by the smooth, creamy scent of sandalwood. The sharp, almost feral scent of civet introduces a provocative edge, while leather provides a rich, smoky depth, evoking images of well-worn armchairs in a gentlemen’s club. 

Oakmoss adds a damp, earthy quality, like the scent of a forest floor after rain, while patchouli deepens the composition with its dark, earthy richness. Benzoin brings a sweet, vanilla-like warmth, adding a resinous, amber glow, while vanilla itself adds a soft, creamy sweetness that lingers on the skin. Finally, vetiver, with its green, woody earthiness, adds a grounding, smoky finish, leaving a trail that is both warm and intriguing.

Together, these notes create a fragrance that is both complex and harmonious, evoking images of misty moors, shadowy forests, and the rugged elegance of the countryside, all wrapped in a warm, enveloping embrace.

Bottles:

Tweed's parfum (extrait) was originally presented in a strikingly elegant bottle, designed to resemble a Japanese "Koro" incense burner. In Japanese culture, a "Koro" is a traditional vessel used for burning incense, often crafted from fine materials such as bronze or porcelain. The "Koro" is not only a functional object but also a symbol of refinement and tranquility, commonly used in religious and ceremonial contexts. By choosing to model the Tweed perfume bottle after a "Koro," Lentheric sought to evoke a sense of timeless elegance, ritualistic beauty, and a connection to the serene, meditative qualities associated with incense burning.

The bottle's design, with its chunky crystal form, exudes a sense of solidity and luxury, much like the treasured "Koro" it imitates. The use of crystal not only adds a tactile weight and brilliance to the bottle but also emphasizes the high quality and exclusivity of the perfume within. The glass inner stopper, topped with a wooden overcap, is a thoughtful detail that adds to the tactile experience of using the perfume, echoing the careful craftsmanship and attention to detail seen in traditional Japanese art. The silkscreened name "Tweed" on the front of the bottle, done in black enamel serigraphy, further enhances the bottle's elegant and refined appearance. This method of application ensures that the name is both durable and visually striking, complementing the bottle's luxurious aesthetic.

Earlier versions of the bottle featured glass inner stoppers, which provided an additional layer of sophistication and quality. The later versions, which transitioned to plastic or metal screw caps, reflect changes in manufacturing practices and possibly shifts in consumer preferences. However, these changes also mark a departure from the original artisanal qualities that made the earlier bottles so distinctive.

Contrary to popular belief, this exquisite bottle was not manufactured by Baccarat, the renowned French glass company known for its high-end crystal creations. This is evidenced by the fact that the bottle is not listed in the collector's book "Baccarat: The Perfume Bottles," published by the company itself. This detail is significant for collectors and connoisseurs, as it highlights the importance of accurate attribution and the value of understanding the provenance of such luxury items. The misattribution to Baccarat, while common, underscores the bottle's quality and design, which are often assumed to be on par with the craftsmanship of one of the world's most famous glassmakers.

In summary, the choice to model the Tweed parfum bottle after a Japanese "Koro" incense burner was a deliberate and inspired decision, aligning the fragrance with notions of ritual, luxury, and refinement. The bottle's design, coupled with its high-quality materials and craftsmanship, made it a fitting vessel for a perfume as sophisticated and timeless as Tweed.

If your Tweed perfume bottle is missing its original label or hang tag indicating the size, you can easily determine it using this handy guide based on the bottle’s height, measured from the base to the top of the stopper. It’s important to note that the wooden stopper has undergone design changes over the years. Initially, it was crafted as a two-part piece, made from a single block with a distinctive U-shape underneath. In later years, the design was simplified to a single block construction. While these changes in the stopper's design do affect the overall height of the bottle, the difference is minimal and won't significantly alter the measurements.

For the smallest size, the 1/8 oz bottle stands at approximately 1.75 inches tall. The 1/4 oz bottle is slightly taller, measuring around 2 inches. The 1/2 oz bottle adds a bit more height, coming in at about 2.25 inches. The 1 oz bottle, one of the more commonly found sizes, stands at 3 inches tall, offering a more substantial feel in the hand. The 2 oz bottle, slightly larger, measures about 3.25 inches. The 4 oz bottle, although not specified here, would naturally follow in height progression. Lastly, the largest size listed, the 8 oz bottle, stands at a commanding 4.75 inches tall, making it a true statement piece.

This guide is particularly useful for collectors and enthusiasts who want to accurately identify the size of their Tweed perfume bottles, especially if the original markings are missing. By carefully measuring the height, you can confidently determine the size of your bottle, regardless of the changes in stopper design.

In 1936 the prices for the parfum were as follows:

• Dram - 85 cents
• Purse size - $1.25
• 1/4 oz - $2.25
• 1/2 oz - $4.00
• 1 oz - $7.00
• 2 oz - $12.50
• 8 oz - $27.50

Controlled Bubble Bottles:

In 1935, Lentheric introduced a stunning controlled bubble glass bottle, meticulously crafted in Czechoslovakia, that became a signature presentation for several of its iconic perfumes. This exquisite bottle design is notable for its elegance and attention to detail, with its distinctive bubble effect encapsulated within the glass, creating a captivating visual allure. Each bottle stands 4 inches tall and features a glass dauber, adding to its luxurious feel and functionality.

The controlled bubble glass bottle was produced in various colors, each hue carefully chosen to reflect the unique character of the perfume it contained. For instance, the cerulean blue bottle was reserved for "Miracle," imbuing the scent with a sense of calm and serenity. "Lotus D'Or" was encased in a softened rose-colored bottle, evoking the delicate beauty of its floral inspiration. The rich green bottle was used for several perfumes, including "Le Pirate," "Au Fil de L'Eau," and "Foret Vierge," each bottle drawing a connection to nature's verdant landscapes.

For "Asphodele," a mirror-clear bottle was selected, allowing the purity and transparency of the fragrance to take center stage. The champagne-hued bottle for "Tweed" added a touch of refined elegance, perfectly complementing the perfume's sophisticated profile. The deep amber bottle for "Numero Douze" suggested warmth and richness, while the orchid-colored bottle for "Gardenia de Tahiti" evoked the exotic allure of its namesake flower.

By 1936, this collection of controlled bubble glass bottles had become a hallmark of Lentheric's dedication to quality and artistic presentation, offering consumers not only a beautiful fragrance but also a visually striking and collectible piece of art. Each color and design choice was deliberate, enhancing the overall experience of the perfume and making these bottles highly sought after by collectors and connoisseurs alike.

Orrefors Crystal Parfum Flacons:

In 1936, Lentheric introduced an elegant trio of crystal bottles crafted by the renowned Swedish glass manufacturer Orrefors. These exquisite bottles were designed to house three of Lentheric's most celebrated fragrances: Tweed, Gardenia de Tahiti, and Miracle. Each bottle was a masterpiece in its own right, featuring intricate etchings on the front that reflected the essence of the perfume within. The artistry of the etching added a layer of sophistication, capturing the delicate interplay of light and shadow on the crystal surface.

Topping each bottle was a frosted glass stopper, shaped like a spire, that lent a regal and refined touch to the overall design. This spire-like stopper not only provided a functional seal for the fragrance but also served as a visual focal point, elevating the bottle's aesthetic appeal. The combination of the etched crystal and the frosted spire created a harmonious balance of elegance and modernity, making these bottles true works of art.

The presentation of these bottles was equally remarkable. They were housed in a vaulted top box, covered in silver and blue paper, which added to the sense of luxury and exclusivity. This packaging was carefully designed to protect the delicate crystal bottles while also making a striking impression upon opening.

Despite their craftsmanship, many of these Orrefors bottles are unmarked with the manufacturer’s name. Instead, they originally came with hang tags, which over time were often lost, leading to a lack of recognition that these bottles were part of Lentheric's distinguished offerings. As a result, many collectors and enthusiasts may be unaware that these crystal bottles, now considered rare and valuable, were once used by Lentheric to encapsulate some of their finest fragrances. The understated elegance and the artistry of Orrefors, combined with the timeless appeal of Lentheric perfumes, make these bottles a treasured find for those in the know.

Bouquet Lentheric:

A long lasting cologne available in various sizes and bottle shapes.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1992, the classic perfume underwent a significant reformulation under the expertise of Arthur Burnham, marking a new chapter in its storied legacy. Relaunched in collaboration with Yardley, renowned for its Fine Fragrances and Cosmetics, this version of the perfume was reintroduced to the market with a fresh perspective.

This reformulated iteration is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women, a genre known for its elegant and sophisticated character. Floral aldehyde perfumes are distinguished by their complex, multi-faceted compositions that combine the freshness of aldehydes with the rich, opulent notes of floral bouquets. In this new formulation, the fragrance opens with a sparkling burst of aldehydes, which lend a bright and airy quality to the perfume. This is seamlessly blended with a lush array of floral notes, creating a refined and timeless scent profile that evokes a sense of both modernity and classic elegance.

The collaboration with Yardley, a name synonymous with quality and luxury in the fragrance industry, ensured that this version of the perfume adhered to high standards of craftsmanship and sophistication. The result is a fragrance that captures the essence of its predecessor while offering a contemporary twist, making it a standout choice for discerning women seeking a perfume that balances tradition with innovation.

This version is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, orange and violets
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, lilac and magnolia 
• Base notes: sandalwood, civet and leather

Scent Profile:

The reformulated Tweed, classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance, unfolds like a symphony of scent, each note meticulously crafted to create an elegant and harmonious olfactory experience.

As you first encounter this fragrance, the top notes immediately greet you with a fresh, invigorating burst. The crisp bergamot offers a zesty citrus brightness, infusing the air with a vibrant, tangy essence that awakens the senses. This is seamlessly blended with neroli, which adds a touch of sweet, honeyed floralcy, reminiscent of a sun-drenched orange grove. The rich, tangy aroma of orange intertwines with the bergamot, providing a deeper, more rounded citrus note. Completing this opening is the delicate yet vibrant scent of violets, which introduces a soft, powdery floral note that adds a hint of romance and sophistication.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes reveal themselves with a lush, blooming bouquet. The rose exudes a classic, timeless fragrance, its velvety petals offering a rich, opulent aroma that is both elegant and deeply comforting. Jasmine enhances this floral richness with its heady, intoxicating scent, adding a touch of exotic allure. Carnation introduces a spicy, clove-like nuance that adds depth and complexity to the floral heart. Orris, with its buttery, suede-like quality, imparts a luxurious, creamy texture, while lilac contributes a soft, airy sweetness that evokes the freshness of springtime blooms. Magnolia completes the heart with its creamy, lemony floral scent, adding a touch of sophistication and grace.

The base notes provide a grounding finish to the fragrance, leaving a lasting impression. Sandalwood delivers a warm, creamy, and slightly smoky essence, enveloping the senses in its rich, woody embrace. Civet introduces a musky, animalic note that adds an element of intrigue and sensuality, subtly enhancing the fragrance's depth and warmth. Finally, leather provides a sophisticated, slightly earthy aroma that brings an elegant, refined finish, imbuing the fragrance with a timeless, classic appeal.

Together, these notes create a complex and captivating fragrance that balances freshness, floral richness, and sensual depth, capturing the essence of sophistication and elegance in every spray.