Dark Brilliance, introduced by Lentheric in 1946, is a fragrance that encapsulates a sense of enigmatic allure and understated elegance. The name, which translates directly from English as "Dark Brilliance," conjures images of a luminous yet shadowy opulence. This evocative title suggests a perfume that embodies both mystery and sophistication, merging the concepts of darkness and light to create a scent that is both compelling and complex.
The term "Dark Brilliance" evokes a rich tapestry of imagery—perhaps a midnight sky strewn with stars or the soft glow of candlelight in an intimate, velvety setting. The juxtaposition of "dark" and "brilliance" suggests a fragrance that is both deep and radiant, offering a sensuous, multi-faceted experience. This contrast speaks to an allure that is as much about subtlety and depth as it is about boldness and impact.
In terms of scent, Dark Brilliance can be interpreted as a complex, enveloping fragrance with a warm, animalic base. Its composition features a heavy, sweet floral presence, with acacia prominently leading the bouquet. This sweetness is underpinned by a rich, ambery base that adds depth and warmth. The perfume's spicy and animalic undertones enhance its opulent character, creating a scent that feels both luxurious and intense.
Released shortly after World War II, Dark Brilliance emerged in a time when society was embracing a sense of renewal and sophistication. The late 1940s were marked by a fascination with glamour and elegance, and the fragrance market was ripe with creations that reflected this post-war exuberance. Dark Brilliance stood out with its bold, distinctive character, differentiating itself from the more restrained or purely floral fragrances of the era. Its heavy, sweet floral notes combined with a warm, spicy base made it a unique choice for women seeking a fragrance that was both exotic and deeply resonant. The perfume's opulent nature aligned with the era's burgeoning interest in luxurious and expressive scents, making it a memorable part of the fragrance landscape of the time.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a heavy, sweet floral fragrance for women. Heavy with dominant notes of acacia layered over a warm animalic, spicy, ambery base.
- Top notes: acacia, hydroxycitronellal, anisaldehyde , bergamot
- Middle notes: lavender, Bulgarian rose, cinnamon, gardenia, jasmine absolute, tuberose, carnation, orris
- Base notes: spices, ambergris, civet, benzoin, musk, oakmoss, myrrh, castoreum, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, civet
I just tested a small amount on my skin from a sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells mossy, fuzzy, then extremely sweet with gardenia and tuberose, much like vintage Fracas perfume, this lasts for quite awhile, then I get a hint of a slightly soapy Bulgarian rose, and a slightly indolic jasmine breaking through. At the end of the drydown, mingling with amber, soft spices, incense and woodsy notes, you can smell the civet and some "fuzzy" castoreum. This is an extremely nice, sultry, definitely an evening perfume. After an hour, I still smell some of the animalic and sweet floral notes.
On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy, with only a short breath of the flowers, I feel that only on the skin does the super sweet gardenia and tuberose blend become very apparent and much more enjoyable.
If you are looking for a beautiful vintage perfume, try this one!
Scent Profile:
Dark Brilliance opens with a strikingly warm and inviting top note that immediately captivates the senses. The dominant presence of acacia greets you with its lush, honeyed sweetness, evoking the rich scent of blooming acacia trees on a sultry summer’s day. This sweetness is complemented by the bright, citrusy notes of bergamot, which adds a refreshing sparkle to the fragrance.
The subtle, yet intriguing undertones of hydroxycitronellal and anisaldehyde infuse the opening with a sophisticated, slightly floral, and mildly fruity character, creating a harmonious and enchanting introduction.
As the perfume develops, the heart reveals a lavish floral bouquet that unfolds with depth and complexity. Lavender lends a soothing herbal aroma, harmonizing beautifully with the opulent Bulgarian rose, which brings a rich, velvety essence. Gardenia contributes a creamy, tropical floral note, while jasmine absolute offers an intensely fragrant, heady sweetness that envelops the senses.
Tuberose adds a lush, narcotic richness, and carnation introduces a spicy, clove-like nuance. Orris adds a touch of powdery elegance, enhancing the heart with its refined, velvety quality. This floral symphony creates a luxurious and multifaceted middle stage, exuding both sophistication and sensuality.
The base of Dark Brilliance is where the fragrance truly reveals its depth and character. Spices mingle with the warm, resinous aroma of ambergris, providing a rich, aromatic foundation. The musky, animalic scent of civet and castoreum adds a provocative edge, while benzoin and myrrh infuse the base with a balsamic sweetness and a hint of smokiness.
Oakmoss contributes an earthy, woody depth that grounds the fragrance, while sandalwood and patchouli introduce creamy, woody undertones. Vanilla brings a final touch of warm, sweet comfort, blending seamlessly with the other base notes to create a deeply sensual and enduring finish.
Dark Brilliance is a fragrance that evokes a sense of intense luxury and warmth, combining a rich, sweet floral heart with a complex, spicy, and ambery base. Each ingredient contributes to a scent that is both captivating and deeply resonant, offering a sophisticated and opulent olfactory experience.
The New Yorker - Volume 22, 1946:
"Never in any season have there been more good, new scents around, and a lot of them were first sniffed in Paris — Lentheric's Dark Brilliance, for instance, which is rich and mellow but contains enough citrus to keep it lively. "
Glass Packer, Volume 26, 1946:
"LENTHERIC'S first new perfume in seven years, "Dark Brilliance, will be imported from France and distribution to American shops will be gradual. Rich and spicy, it is truly a winter fragrance in keeping with fine furs and social comings."
Los Angeles School Journal - Volume 30, 1946:
"Dark Brilliance de Lentheric; Intriguing fragrance, irresistible to the true sophisticate. 2 ounces, 30.00."
Home Journal - Volume 107, 1953:
"Lentheric's Dark Brilliance, with a strongly flowered, exotic timbre."
Bottles:
Dark Brilliance Parfum was elegantly presented in a striking crystal flacon, a testament to both craftsmanship and design. The bottle features a rectangular base that gracefully flares upward, creating a visually arresting silhouette. The front of the bottle is adorned with the name "Dark Brilliance de Lentheric" in sophisticated yellow ochre serigraphy, adding a touch of opulence and distinction. This detail ensures the perfume's name stands out against the clear, gleaming crystal.
The flacon is crowned with a frosted glass stopper, designed to resemble an intricate knot with upturned ends, which adds a refined and tactile quality to the overall presentation. This stopper not only enhances the bottle's aesthetic appeal but also reflects the meticulous attention to detail characteristic of high-quality perfumery.
Manufactured by Verreries Brosse in France, the bottle was designed by Frank McIntosh. It was officially granted design patent number 149507, with the original filing in 1946 and the patent granted in 1948. This design is a blend of functionality and elegance, capturing the essence of Dark Brilliance while elevating the fragrance experience with its exquisite packaging.
The Dark Brilliance bottle is elegantly presented within a sophisticated box that exudes both charm and luxury. The box is covered in sleek black paper, giving it a refined and timeless appearance. It is adorned with a large, multicolored braided yarn tassel that adds a vibrant touch of texture and visual interest. Inside, the box is lined with smooth rayon satin, which not only provides a plush cushion for the bottle but also enhances the overall unboxing experience with its soft, luxurious feel.
The perfume was offered in several sizes to accommodate different preferences and occasions. The smallest size, a 3/4 oz (21ml) bottle, stands at a modest 3.25 inches tall, making it a perfect choice for those who appreciate a compact yet elegant presentation. The 2 oz bottle, standing almost 4 inches tall, provides a more generous amount of the fragrance while maintaining the bottle's graceful proportions. Additionally, there was a larger 6 oz bottle available, catering to those who desired an ample supply of this exquisite perfume.
When Dark Brilliance was first introduced in 1946, it was priced at $15 for the 3/4 oz bottle, $30 for the 2 oz bottle, and $75 for the 6 oz bottle. For those seeking a more economical option, the fragrance was also available in a 1/8 oz dram for $2.50, making it accessible for a wider audience while retaining its luxurious allure.
Dark Brilliance was also featured in the Bouquet Lentheric line, where it was offered in a variety of beautifully designed bottles. Among these, the most striking was a flacon that closely mirrored the elegant design of the parfum bottle. This tall and sophisticated flacon was crafted from clear crystal, maintaining the same high standards of craftsmanship as the parfum presentation.
The bottle stands at an impressive 5.5 inches tall, and it is complemented by a frosted glass stopper, designed to resemble a delicate knot. This detail not only mirrors the design of the parfum bottle but also adds a refined and tactile quality to the presentation. The clear crystal allows the light to dance through the flacon, enhancing the visual appeal and showcasing the fragrance within.
The graceful lines and meticulous design of this bottle make it a standout piece in the Bouquet Lentheric collection, embodying both elegance and luxury in a way that reflects the sophistication of Dark Brilliance.
I can't thank you enough for all your research and tenacity in locating and posting information regarding perfume bottles.
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