In 1924, Lentheric introduced a perfume that captured the imagination of its time: Miracle. The choice of the name "Miracle" was not random; it was deeply connected to a cultural event of the era. The perfume was named after The Miracle, a play produced by the renowned director Max Reinhardt, which starred the actress Diana Manners.
Lentheric strategically launched the fragrance to coincide with the U.S. premiere of this elaborate pantomime at the Century Theatre in New York City on January 15, 1924. The back of the program for the play featured a full-page advertisement for the perfume, showcasing the strong link between the scent and the theatrical experience. The play itself was a collaborative masterpiece, with a program by Karl Vollmoeller, a score by Engelbert Humperdinck, and striking designs by Norman Bel Geddes, including two full-page illustrations of costumes rendered in ink and watercolor.
The word "Miracle," derived from the Latin "miraculum," meaning "wonder" or "marvel," evokes images of awe, the supernatural, and the extraordinary. It brings to mind feelings of reverence and amazement, as if something divine has touched the mundane world. In the context of scent, "Miracle" would suggest a fragrance that transcends the ordinary, a composition that feels almost otherworldly in its beauty and complexity. For the women of the 1920s, a perfume named "Miracle" would have resonated deeply, offering them a sense of enchantment and escape from everyday life. The allure of such a name would be powerful, promising not just a fragrance but an experience that could transform and uplift.
The 1920s was a time of significant social and cultural change, especially for women, who were enjoying new freedoms and exploring new identities. The decade, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties, was marked by a spirit of exuberance and innovation. In the world of perfumery, this era saw a shift towards more daring and complex fragrances. While floral scents remained popular, there was an increasing demand for perfumes that blended these with more unconventional notes, reflecting the dynamic and multifaceted nature of modern womanhood.
Miracle was classified as a floral leather chypre fragrance, a composition that was both bold and sophisticated. The scent featured a bouquet of flowers and herbs, with a subtle spice from carnations and lilies, all resting on a leathery chypre base. This combination of floral softness with the depth and richness of leather and chypre would have made Miracle stand out in the market. While it was aligned with the trends of the time—especially the growing popularity of chypre fragrances—it also offered something unique. Its connection to the theatrical production and the emotions evoked by its name added a layer of narrative and meaning, making it more than just a perfume, but a piece of the cultural zeitgeist.
For the women who wore it, Miracle was likely seen as a statement of elegance, mystery, and modernity—a scent that captured the spirit of a new era.
1925 ad
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral leather chypre fragrance for women. Consists of a mixed bouquet of flowers and herbs, just slightly spiced with carnation and lilies, on a leathery chypre base.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, lilac, coriander, jasmine, rose geranium, hyssop, verbena
- Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, lily, camphor, iris, lavender, rosemary, thyme, tarragon, sage, oregano, basil.
- Base notes: vetiver, carrot seed, orris, pine, sandalwood, Moroccan cedar, patchouli, civet, vanilla, leather, oakmoss, tonka bean, labdanum, opoponax, styrax
L'Amour de l'art, 1950a;
"Miracle by Lentheric: This perfume, which seems to grant our dearest wishes, combines extracts of moss, patchouli and vetiver. It was dedicated to Lady Diana Manners who interpreted the role of the Madonna in the pantomime play Le Miracle performed at New York in 1924."
I just tested a small amount on my skin from a sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells mossy and very aldehydic with a dominant bergamot, verbena and lemon blend. Then a bouquet garni or Herbes de Provence of herbal notes start breaking through: rosemary, coriander, tarragon, thyme, basil, sage, oregano and lavender. I do smell a medicinal camphor note in here too, probably from the herbs. A lovely woody base of cedar, pine and sandalwood punctuated by patchouli and oakmoss is left in the drydown.
On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy and citric, but the herbal notes are not as apparent and would need the warmth of the skin to bring them into fruition. The woodsy notes of pine and cedar are strong.
Scent Profile:
As you encounter the opening notes of Miracle, you are immediately greeted by the bright, almost effervescent quality of aldehydes. Their crisp, slightly soapy character brings a burst of light and freshness, setting the stage for the intricate blend of scents that follows.
The zesty tang of bergamot and lemon soon joins, their citrusy sharpness cutting through the aldehydes with a lively, invigorating energy. The lemon is particularly bright and clean, while the bergamot adds a nuanced, slightly bitter edge that hints at the depth to come.
Just as the citrus notes begin to fade, the soft, powdery floral scent of lilac emerges. It brings a gentle sweetness that is immediately soothing, its delicate petals evoking a springtime garden in full bloom. The floral heart is further enriched by the spicy, herbal warmth of coriander—a touch of peppery zest that adds complexity without overwhelming the senses.
Jasmine enters next, lush and intoxicating, its rich floral aroma weaving through the composition with an air of sensuality. The green, rosy scent of rose geranium follows closely, adding a fresh, almost minty brightness that contrasts beautifully with the heady jasmine. The sharp, herbal intensity of hyssop introduces a slight bitterness, while verbena contributes a clean, lemony greenness that enhances the citrus opening and rounds out the top notes with a refreshing, invigorating finish.
As the fragrance settles into its middle phase, the transition is marked by the arrival of rose and jasmine, both of which dominate the heart with their timeless floral beauty. The rose is velvety and deep, embodying a classic femininity, while the jasmine continues its opulent presence, adding a layer of exotic allure. Carnation introduces a spicy, clove-like warmth that gives the floral heart a fiery kick, while lily brings a touch of purity and elegance, its scent clean and slightly green, balancing the richness of the other florals.
A cooling, medicinal note of camphor cuts through the warmth, adding an unexpected twist that invigorates the senses. The earthy, powdery iris follows, bringing a velvety softness that blends seamlessly with the floral bouquet, its violet-like nuances adding depth and a touch of melancholy. Lavender lends its calming, aromatic presence, its sweet, herbal scent grounding the florals with a familiar, comforting touch.
Rosemary, thyme, tarragon, sage, oregano, and basil form a vibrant herbal medley, each adding its own unique note to the blend. The rosemary is sharp and slightly resinous, the thyme earthy and savory, while tarragon and basil introduce an anise-like sweetness that contrasts with the sage's musky warmth and oregano's spicy undertones. This complex interplay of herbs creates a heart that is both aromatic and floral, a dynamic blend that captivates the senses.
As the fragrance deepens, the base notes emerge, anchoring the composition with their rich, earthy tones. Vetiver leads the way, its smoky, grassy scent adding a rugged, masculine edge that contrasts with the soft florals. Carrot seed adds an unexpected hint of earthiness, with a touch of sweetness that enhances the natural quality of the blend. The luxurious, powdery orris root brings a smooth, creamy texture to the base, its violet-like scent lending a subtle sophistication.
The resinous scent of pine introduces a fresh, woody sharpness, evoking the scent of a forest in the early morning, while the creamy sandalwood and aromatic Moroccan cedar add a warm, balsamic richness. Patchouli brings a sweet, earthy depth that is both exotic and grounding, its presence unmistakable and enduring. The animalic warmth of civet introduces a sensual, slightly musky note, which is softened by the comforting sweetness of vanilla and the smoky, leathery scent of leather.
Oakmoss adds a damp, earthy quality, reminiscent of a forest floor after rain, while tonka bean introduces a soft, sweet creaminess that rounds out the base. The rich, amber-like scent of labdanum, the balsamic warmth of opoponax, and the resinous sweetness of styrax add the final touches, creating a base that is warm, rich, and complex. This final phase lingers on the skin, leaving behind a trail that is both captivating and unforgettable, a perfect reflection of the fragrance's floral leather chypre identity.
Product Line:
Lentheric’s Miracle was not just a perfume but a complete line of luxury products, each designed to enhance the experience of the fragrance and integrate it into various aspects of daily life. The range of offerings reflected the elegance and versatility of the Miracle scent, allowing women to immerse themselves in its charm from morning to night.
At the heart of the Miracle line was the Parfum, also known as extract or extrait. This was the purest form of the fragrance, highly concentrated and designed to be worn sparingly, delivering the most intense and long-lasting version of the scent. A few drops would suffice to envelop the wearer in the rich, floral leather chypre composition that defined Miracle.
For those who desired a lighter but still potent version of the fragrance, Lentheric offered Bouquet Miracle, a double-strength eau de cologne. This version provided a more accessible way to enjoy the depth of the parfum but with a slightly softer presence, suitable for more frequent application throughout the day.
The collection also included a classic Eau de Cologne, which was a more diluted version of the scent, ideal for a refreshing splash after a bath or as a daytime fragrance. Its lighter concentration made it perfect for warmer climates or for those who preferred a subtler fragrance experience.
To complement the perfume, Lentheric expanded the Miracle line into personal care products. Dusting Powder and Powder Sachets offered women a way to layer the scent across their bodies, leaving a delicate fragrance on the skin while keeping it soft and smooth. These powders were popular for their ability to subtly scent the body while providing a luxurious feel.
For a more indulgent experience, Creme Bouquet, a cream sachet, allowed the wearer to apply the fragrance in a rich, moisturizing form. This creamy texture would have been ideal for drier skin, providing both fragrance and hydration, particularly during the colder months.
The line also included Soap and Talc, everyday essentials that were elevated by the inclusion of the Miracle scent. These products made it possible to start and end the day with the fragrance, creating a consistent scent experience from the bath to the boudoir. Bath Salts added another layer of luxury, transforming an ordinary bath into a fragrant, soothing ritual.
Lentheric didn't stop at body care; they extended the Miracle scent into the realm of beauty with Brilliantine and Face Powder. Brilliantine, a popular hair product of the time, allowed women to impart a glossy sheen to their hair while subtly perfuming it with the Miracle fragrance. Meanwhile, face powder and compacts provided a way to keep one’s complexion flawless while carrying the elegant scent, blending beauty with the aromatic experience.
The Miracle product line was a comprehensive suite of luxury items, each meticulously crafted to allow women to integrate the fragrance into every aspect of their personal care and beauty routines. The wide array of forms ensured that the Miracle scent could be a constant companion, enhancing the wearer’s allure and sophistication throughout the day.
Bottles:
Black Crystal Floating Gold Parfum Flacon:
The Black Crystal Floating Gold Parfum Flacon is a masterpiece of luxury and craftsmanship, embodying the elegance and opulence of its era. The bottle itself is crafted from black crystal, a material that exudes sophistication with its deep, inky hue. What makes this flacon truly extraordinary is the presence of real gold dust embedded within the glass, known as "floating gold." This effect gives the bottle an ethereal, almost magical quality, as if the gold flecks are suspended in a dark, mysterious night sky.
Designed by the renowned Georges Dumoulin, this deluxe flacon was produced by Baccarat, one of the most prestigious glassmakers in the world. Baccarat’s expertise in crystal is legendary, and this bottle is a testament to their ability to combine artistry with technical precision. The luxurious feel of the black crystal, combined with the shimmering floating gold, creates a visual and tactile experience that is nothing short of mesmerizing.
The stopper, made of black bakelite, complements the bottle's sleek design. Bakelite, a material often used in luxury items during the early 20th century, adds a vintage charm while maintaining the bottle’s refined aesthetic. The stopper cover, with its smooth, glossy finish, contrasts beautifully with the gold-speckled crystal, enhancing the overall allure of the flacon.
The base of the bottle is acid-stamped with the words "Made in France," a mark of its origin and a guarantee of its quality. This subtle detail speaks to the craftsmanship and pride in the production of such an exquisite item.
The Black Crystal Floating Gold Parfum Flacon was available in three sizes, each offering its own presence. The largest, standing at 5 7/8 inches tall, commands attention with its grandeur. The medium-sized bottle, at 4 1/2 inches tall, strikes a perfect balance between elegance and practicality, making it a versatile choice for collectors. The smallest, at 3 1/8 inches tall, is a delicate jewel, ideal for those who appreciate the beauty of miniature works of art. The smaller versions of the bottle, crafted by Depinoix, maintain the same attention to detail and luxury, ensuring that each size reflects the same level of craftsmanship.
In all its sizes, the Black Crystal Floating Gold Parfum Flacon is a stunning example of Art Deco design, combining luxurious materials with impeccable artistry. It stands as a symbol of the glamour and sophistication of the time, a piece that is not only a container for fragrance but a work of art in its own right.
Hearst's, 1929:
"Inevitably they return with a zealously guarded bottle of this most exquisite perfume of Guillaume Lentheric — a bottle in onyx and sprayed gold, full of tiny drops — within each drop, forever trapped, the quick sweet scents of fragile living flowers."
Baccarat/Val St Lambert - Blue Edged Parfum Flacon:
The Blue Edged Parfum Flacon, crafted by Baccarat and Val St Lambert, is a striking example of early 20th-century perfume bottle design, encapsulating the elegance and refinement of the 1920s. This flacon, used for Lentheric’s Miracle perfume, features a square silhouette that is both timeless and sophisticated. The bottle is made from cased crystal, a technique that involves layering colored glass over clear crystal, resulting in a luminous and richly hued exterior. In this particular bottle, the crystal is edged in a deep, vibrant blue, creating a stunning contrast against the clear body of the flacon.
Standing at 3 1/2 inches tall, this bottle is a compact yet bold statement piece. The blue cased glass imparts a cool, serene aura, evoking the clarity and depth of a pristine lake. The edges of the bottle, defined by the rich blue glass, catch the light in a way that highlights the craftsmanship involved in its creation. The flacon is topped with a perfectly fitted stopper, also made of crystal, which seamlessly integrates into the design, maintaining the bottle's clean lines and refined appearance.
Adding to its luxurious feel, the stopper is adorned with a metal cover, which provides a gleaming accent to the otherwise understated elegance of the crystal. The label, carefully placed, further enhances the bottle’s aesthetic while identifying the precious fragrance within. The flacon bears the stenciled mark of Val St Lambert, a Belgian glass manufacturer known for its high-quality crystal, adding an extra layer of prestige to this exquisite piece.
This particular bottle design is not exclusive to the Miracle fragrance. Baccarat, renowned for their impeccable crystal work, also produced this model in variations using green or rose cased glass. These versions were used for the perfume Ambre Mousse, a fragrance first introduced in 1912. The use of different colored glass allowed for a variety of visual effects, each one tailored to complement the specific fragrance it housed.
The Blue Edged Parfum Flacon, identified as Baccarat model number 298, was originally created in 1916. Its design reflects the Art Deco influences of the time, with its geometric shape, clean lines, and bold use of color. The bottle’s craftsmanship, combined with its historical significance, makes it not only a container for perfume but a collector's item that speaks to the artistry and luxury of early 20th-century perfumery.
Frosted Grecian Capital Parfum Flacon:
The Frosted Grecian Capital Parfum Flacon, introduced in 1936 for Lentheric’s Miracle, is a testament to the evolution of luxury perfume packaging during the early 20th century. This elegant bottle, crafted by Verreries Brosse, represents a shift from the elaborate and costly designs of earlier years to a more accessible yet still exquisitely detailed presentation. The flacon's design, the work of renowned artist Frank McIntosh, reflects a blend of classical inspiration and modern craftsmanship, with the bottle’s shape and ornamentation evoking the grandeur of ancient Grecian architecture.
The flacon is characterized by its frosted glass finish, which gives it a soft, ethereal quality. The frosted surface contrasts beautifully with the clear glass accents, particularly the scrolling motifs that adorn each side of the bottle. These scrolls, reminiscent of the decorative elements found on Grecian capitals, add a touch of classical elegance to the design, while also enhancing the tactile experience of the bottle. The combination of frosted and clear glass not only creates visual interest but also allows light to interact with the flacon in a way that highlights its intricate details.
This design was patented in the United States on May 27, 1936, signaling its originality and the high regard in which it was held. The bottle's introduction marked a departure from the previously used black "floating gold" Baccarat and Depinoix bottles, which, while stunning, were expensive to produce. The Frosted Grecian Capital Parfum Flacon offered a more cost-effective alternative without compromising on luxury or style, making the Miracle fragrance more widely accessible to discerning customers.
The flacon was available in several sizes, each maintaining the same graceful proportions and meticulous detailing. The mini perfume version, containing 1/8 ounce of fragrance, stands at a diminutive 1-5/16 inches tall by 1-9/16 inches wide, making it a perfect little gem for collectors. The half-ounce size measures 2 inches tall by 2-1/2 inches wide, offering a slightly more substantial presence while still being compact. The one-ounce version, at 2-5/8 inches tall and 3-1/2 inches wide, provides a more generous serving of the perfume, ideal for regular use.
For those seeking even more of this treasured fragrance, the flacon was also produced in larger sizes. The two-ounce and four-ounce versions offered more substantial bottles, with the latter measuring 3 1/4 inches tall by 4 1/4 inches wide, providing a commanding presence on any vanity. The largest, the eight-ounce flacon, stands at an impressive 4 inches tall by 5 1/4 inches wide, making it a true statement piece and a reflection of the luxurious indulgence that Lentheric's Miracle represented.
Overall, the Frosted Grecian Capital Parfum Flacon is not only a vessel for a beloved fragrance but also a work of art that captures the essence of a bygone era, where beauty, craftsmanship, and classical inspiration were paramount in the design of luxury goods.
Travel, 1936:
"A flacon of arresting beauty — replica in crystal of the capital of a Grecian column, with classic lines and graceful scrolls."
Reste Jeune, 1936;
"Lenthéric recently modified the presentation of Miracle. This perfume, well known to Parisiennes, is currently presented in a very new bottle in the shape of the capital of an Ionian column, standing in a lacquer-like box, white and gold, reminiscent of the lines of a Greek temple."
Czech Controlled Bubble Parfum Flacons:
In 1935, Lentheric introduced another striking presentation for their fragrances, including Miracle, with the Controlled Bubble Glass Bottle. This exquisite bottle, crafted in Czechoslovakia, exemplifies the meticulous attention to detail and artistry that characterized perfume bottles of the era. The controlled bubble technique, a hallmark of skilled glassmakers, involves the deliberate placement of air bubbles within the glass, creating a mesmerizing effect that adds both texture and visual depth to the bottle.
The Controlled Bubble Glass Bottle stands at a graceful 4 inches tall, its form both elegant and understated. The bubbles, suspended within the glass, seem to float effortlessly, catching and reflecting light in a way that gives the bottle a unique, almost magical, quality. Each bottle was crafted with this intricate technique, ensuring that no two bottles were exactly alike, adding to their allure as collectible items.
Lentheric utilized this bottle design across several of their fragrances, with each scent being distinguished by a different colored glass. For Miracle, the bottle was rendered in a stunning cerulean blue, a color that evokes the serenity and depth of the sky and sea. This blue hue not only complements the fragrance within but also enhances the overall sensory experience, making the bottle a visual representation of the scent’s ethereal qualities.
The Controlled Bubble Glass Bottle was also used for other Lentheric perfumes, each identified by its own distinct color. The softened rose glass for Lotus D'Or exudes a gentle, romantic charm, while the rich green glass used for Le Pirate, Au Fil de L'Eau, and Foret Vierge conveys a sense of nature and vibrancy. The mirror-clear glass of Asphodele offers a sleek, modern appearance, reflecting light with a crystalline brilliance. Champagne-colored glass for Tweed embodies sophistication and elegance, while the amber glass for Numero Douze adds warmth and a touch of vintage allure.
These color variations not only provided visual cues for the different fragrances but also allowed Lentheric to create a cohesive yet diverse collection of bottles, each one a jewel in its own right. The Controlled Bubble Glass Bottle, with its blend of artistry and functionality, remains a testament to the innovation and creativity that defined the golden age of perfumery. Whether in cerulean blue or any of the other hues, this bottle is a beautiful, timeless piece that continues to captivate collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike.
Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1935:
"LENTHERIC'S Bubble Bottle comes in blue, clear, rose, amber or green. The glass is full of tiny bubbles and the whole bottle looks like one large bubble itself. Numero Douze, Miracle, Asphodele, and Le Pirate are the perfumes bottled in this way."
In 1936, a trio of crystal bottles was introduced manufactured by Orrefors to hold Tweed, Gardenia de Tahiti and Miracle. Each bottle was etched with a different design on the front and was topped by a frosted glass spire like stopper. The vaulted top box was covered in silver and blue paper. The bottles are often unmarked for the Orrefors name and simply had hang tags which were usually lost over time, so most people are unaware that these were used by Lentheric.
From a 1929 Lentheric catalog, Miracle was available in the following, with original prices:
Extract (boxed):
- No. 2360 - 1/2 oz - $4.00
- No. 1360 - 1 oz - $7.00
- No. 360 - 2 oz - $12.50
- No. 361 - 4 oz - $25.00
- No. 362 - 8 oz $45.00
Toilet Water:
- No. 370 - 4 oz - $6.00
- No. 371 - 8 oz - $10.00
- No. 372 - 16 oz - $18.00
Double Compact (with extra refill):
- No. 100 - $2.50
- Rouge: Pour Blonde, Medium, Pour Brune
- Powder: Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche
Single Compact (with extra refill):
- No. 101 - $1.00
- Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche
Powder Refill (with puff for No. 101 and 100):
- No. 103 - $0.50
- Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche
Face Powder (with puff):
- No. 105 - $1.00
- Naturelle No. 1
- Naturelle No. 2
- Naturelle No. 3
- Rachel No. 1
- Rachel No. 2
- Summer Tan
- Ocre
- Ocre Rose
- Blanche
Talcum Powder
- No. 110 - 4 1/2 oz - $1.00
- Summer Tan
- White
Dusting Powder (with puff)
- No. 115 - $2.00
Bath Salts
- No. 120 - small - $1.50
- No. 121 - large - $2.50
Soaps (3 cakes to a box):
- No. 130 - per cake - $1.00
Brilliantine:
- No. 135 - Liquid - $1.50
- No. 136 - Crystallized - $2.50
Sachet:
- No. 140 - 1 oz - $2.00
Fate of the Fragrance:
Miracle, one of Lentheric’s most iconic fragrances, enjoyed a long and storied presence in the world of perfumery. After its initial launch in a variety of luxurious and artistically crafted bottles, the fragrance eventually transitioned into simpler, more accessible packaging. These less ornate bottles allowed Miracle to reach a broader audience, maintaining its presence on the market well into the 1960s.
The shift from the elaborate designs of the early 20th century to more streamlined packaging reflected the changing tastes and economic realities of the time. While the earlier bottles, like the black crystal flacon with floating gold and the controlled bubble glass bottle, were works of art in their own right, the later bottles focused on practicality and affordability. These designs were less about making a grand statement and more about ensuring that the beloved fragrance could be enjoyed by as many people as possible.
Despite the simplification of its packaging, Miracle retained its status as a cherished scent. The fragrance continued to captivate those who sought its unique blend of floral, leather, and chypre notes, even as its external presentation became more understated. However, by the end of the 1960s, Miracle quietly disappeared from the market. The exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, adding a layer of mystery to its legacy.
Today, Miracle is remembered not only for its distinctive scent but also for the elegance and creativity of its early bottles, which have become prized collectibles. The fragrance's journey from opulent flacons to simpler bottles mirrors the evolution of the perfume industry itself, reflecting the shifting dynamics of luxury and accessibility.
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