Shanghai by Lentheric c1936

Shanghai by Lentheric, launched in 1936, carries an intriguing history and cultural resonance. The fragrance originally debuted as Cœur de Paris in 1911, but its renaming to Shanghai in 1936 was a significant shift. The choice of "Shanghai" as the new name was likely inspired by the city's status as a vibrant and exotic metropolis, brimming with mystery, allure, and a cosmopolitan flair. The word "Shanghai" itself is derived from Chinese, meaning "upon the sea," and it evokes images of bustling ports, rich trade, and a gateway to the East. During the early 20th century, Shanghai was seen as a symbol of modernity, glamour, and exoticism, a city where East met West in a fusion of cultures, styles, and sensibilities.

The name "Shanghai" would have conjured up a sense of adventure, luxury, and the allure of the unknown. It would have appealed to women seeking a fragrance that embodied sophistication and a touch of the exotic. For a woman in the 1930s, wearing a perfume named Shanghai could have been a way to express her cosmopolitan tastes, her yearning for travel, or her desire to capture some of the mysterious elegance associated with the Far East.

In terms of scent, the word "Shanghai" might evoke a complex blend of rich, warm notes with an exotic twist—perhaps an oriental floral composition with hints of spices, woods, and opulent florals like jasmine or rose. Such a fragrance would capture the essence of the city: a mix of the traditional and the modern, the familiar and the foreign, creating an intoxicating experience that transports the wearer to a far-off land.

The time period in which Shanghai was launched, the mid-1930s, was a significant era for perfumery. This was a time when many women were looking for bold, distinctive scents that mirrored the changing social landscape. The world was in the midst of the Art Deco movement, characterized by luxury, glamour, and a fascination with the exotic. Fragrances of the time often reflected these trends, with oriental and floral notes becoming increasingly popular. Shanghai's blend of oriental and floral elements was in line with this trend, yet it still stood out for its evocative name and the cultural imagery it inspired.

In summary, Shanghai by Lentheric was more than just a fragrance; it was a statement. It resonated with the adventurous spirit of the era, offering women a scent that was as intriguing and multifaceted as the city it was named after. It captured the essence of a time when the world was rapidly changing, and women were beginning to explore new identities, dreams, and desires.

The Relaunch:

To counter rumors that their fragrance had been discontinued during the war and was only now being revived, Lentheric launched an extensive and elaborate marketing campaign for their Shanghai perfume in 1947. This campaign, themed around China's Autumn Festival, began in mid-September and concluded in November, showcasing the company's dedication to meticulous planning and innovative promotional strategies. Lentheric skillfully combined long-range planning, careful coordination, and a vibrant exploitation of color and atmosphere to create a truly immersive experience for potential customers.

A key element of this campaign was the involvement of Chinese American film actress Anna May Wong, who served as the face of Shanghai. As a spokesmodel, Wong made personal appearances in retail outlets, lending authenticity and glamour to the promotion. Her role extended beyond simple endorsements; she engaged with the public by giving lectures on "Chinese Beauty Customs" at prestigious venues such as New York's Plaza Hotel and Stern Brothers department store. This educational aspect added depth to the campaign, allowing customers to connect with the cultural richness of the fragrance.

Lentheric's promotional efforts were not limited to Wong's appearances. The campaign extended to 20 different stores, each receiving a specially designed "Shanghai yellow" portfolio tied with tassels and adorned with Chinese coins. Inside, tortoiseshell paper envelopes in various colors provided guidance materials for merchandising managers, advertising managers, display managers, and toilet goods buyers. This attention to detail ensured that each store could create a cohesive and culturally resonant display.

The larger retail stores participating in the promotion embraced the Chinese theme with vibrant, eye-catching displays. At Stern's New York, for example, a Chinese mannequin was posed against yellow curtains, creating a striking window display. Stores distributed small cut-out flyers shaped like the Shanghai perfume bottle, along with black programs tied with yellow cords and tassels. The programs featured the Chinese symbol for "good luck" in the upper corner, and a tiny gift vial of the perfume was mounted on a replica of the card, adding a tangible element to the promotion that customers could take home.

Fashion shows were another highlight of the Shanghai campaign. At the Hotel Netherland Plaza, Mabley & Carew's style show introduced the perfume amidst a backdrop of Oriental-inspired fashion in blue, red, yellow, and purple. Golden chrysanthemums flanked the rostrum, enhancing the Oriental motif. The presentation was further elevated by a unique theatrical skit titled "The Princess," which combined stylized gestures and nostalgic poetry, interpreted by Anna May Wong. This performance added a layer of cultural storytelling, making the campaign not just a commercial venture, but an artistic and cultural event.

Through this multifaceted approach, Lentheric's Shanghai promotion captured the imagination of consumers, blending the allure of the Orient with the sophistication of high fashion, all while reinforcing the perfume's position as a timeless and luxurious fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. In a 1938 newspaper article it was described as "a very suave perfume, a natural affinity for furs, woolens, cold weather, grand for brunettes, and having a warm fragrance...the haunting mystery of the East...subtle and exquisite delicacy of modernized oriental fragrance."

I am using a vintage 1940's Shanghai perfume nip to review this perfume, and I detect soapy aldehydes in this example, which were probably not used in the Coeur de Paris version. This is a beautiful perfume, very powdery, herbal and spicy with the amber and aldehydes, I also think I detect bee pollen.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, cinnamon, hyacinth, clove, citronella, neroli
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, carnation, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, geranium, lavender, nutmeg, orris
• Base notes: opoponax, labdanum, storax, patchouli, frankincense, cedarwood,  tonka bean, vetiver, oakmoss, myrrh, benzoin, ambergris, musk, sandalwood

I just tested a small amount on my skin from another sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells aldehydic, pungently citric, a cross between Avon's Skin So Soft and Old Spice, geranium and lavender shine through. It lasts fairly long, spicy and herbal on a warm, woody, musk laden base.

On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy, with only a short breath of the flowers, I feel that only on the skin does the super sweet gardenia and tuberose blend become very apparent and much more enjoyable.

A 1936 ad reads:

"New fragrance Shanghai, a gift that is refreshing. Many women like a spicy and gay fragrance and this perfume is as merry and gay as the Christmas season."

Etude, 1938:

"They are all there in Lentheric's magnificent perfume Shanghai. In direct contrast is Lentheric's A Bientot ('till we meet again), a light, gay, refreshing, free, playful fragrance, full of youth and expectancy, midsummer floral odors for you."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Shanghai by Lentheric: The warmth of this perfume half-opens the door to the Orient. It is a bold chypre with noisy and melodious notes like Chinese 'kuan-tzèn'."

Scent Profile:

As you uncork the vintage 1940s bottle of Shanghai, the initial burst of aldehydes greets you with a crisp, almost soapy freshness, creating an airy sensation that feels both clean and effervescent. This brightness is swiftly softened by the warm, citrusy embrace of bergamot, its tangy sharpness tempered by a subtle sweetness that dances on the edge of your senses. The bergamot intertwines with the spicy warmth of cinnamon, adding a delicate piquancy that tantalizes the nostrils. 

The floral sweetness of hyacinth blooms underneath, its lush, green fragrance bringing a fresh, springtime nuance. Clove adds a rich, aromatic spiciness, its warmth mingling with the lemony zing of citronella, which infuses a subtle, bright sharpness. The neroli, with its fresh, green floral tones, offers a delicate citrusy sweetness that rounds out the top notes, leaving a light, elegant impression.

As the heart of Shanghai unfurls, the voluptuous florals take center stage. Ylang ylang emerges first, its heady, sweet, and slightly fruity aroma enveloping you in its exotic warmth. This is followed by the creamy, velvety scent of gardenia, its lush petals lending a rich, intoxicating sweetness that deepens the floral bouquet. 

Tuberose, with its intense, buttery white floral notes, adds a narcotic allure, while the orange blossom infuses a light, honeyed sweetness, evoking the fresh scent of an orange grove in bloom. The spicy clove character of carnation adds a unique, fiery warmth, contrasting beautifully with the soft, romantic essence of Bulgarian rose, whose velvety petals exude an intoxicating, deep floral richness. The jasmine adds its own indolic sweetness, a blend of white floral and animalic undertones that enhances the seductive allure of the fragrance. 

Geranium, with its slightly minty and rosy scent, adds a green, herbaceous nuance, while lavender brings a soft, calming touch, its aromatic freshness infusing the floral heart with an herbal clarity. Nutmeg, with its warm, slightly sweet and spicy aroma, adds depth and complexity, blending seamlessly with the soft, earthy powderiness of orris root, which grounds the florals in a powdery, almost violet-like softness.

As the scent dries down, the base notes reveal themselves with a rich, resinous warmth. Opoponax, with its sweet, balsamic aroma, lends a honeyed, slightly smoky depth that intertwines with the leathery richness of labdanum. Storax adds a balsamic sweetness, its resinous depth providing a dark, velvety base that melds with the earthy, woody undertones of patchouli. 

Frankincense, with its smoky, slightly metallic scent, imparts a sacred, mystical aura, while cedarwood adds a dry, woody strength that grounds the composition. The soft, powdery sweetness of tonka bean lends a creamy warmth, while vetiver adds a fresh, green earthiness that is both grounding and refreshing. The mossy, slightly damp scent of oakmoss brings a natural, forest-like quality, while myrrh adds a resinous, slightly medicinal depth, its ancient, sacred scent adding to the fragrance’s mysterious allure. 

Benzoin, with its vanilla-like sweetness, envelops the composition in a warm, amber glow, while ambergris adds a soft, oceanic depth, with its subtly animalic and salty nuances. Musk, with its warm, sensual undertones, melds with the creamy richness of sandalwood, leaving a lingering trail of warmth, depth, and irresistible allure.

As you inhale the perfume, it envelops you in a cloud of mystery and sophistication, transporting you to a world where the haunting mystery of the East meets the exquisite delicacy of a modernized oriental fragrance. 

The warmth of the scent, combined with its rich, powdery, herbal, and spicy notes, creates an atmosphere of opulence and sensuality, perfectly suited to the elegance of fur, woolens, and cold weather, making it a truly grand fragrance for brunettes and all those who appreciate the intricate beauty of a well-crafted perfume.

Bottles:

Shanghai parfum is presented in an exquisite clear crystal bottle, inspired by the elegant form of an ancient Chinese incense burner. This design choice not only reflects the fragrance's oriental allure but also adds a touch of historical sophistication to the presentation. The bottle's openworked handles are a striking feature, intricately detailed to capture the essence of timeless craftsmanship.

The larger 1-ounce bottle showcases frosted glass handles and a frosted glass over-cap, which lend a subtle contrast to the clear crystal body, enhancing its tactile and visual appeal. This frosted finish adds a layer of refinement, creating a soft, diffused glow that underscores the luxurious nature of the fragrance within. The bottle is also fitted with a meticulously crafted crystal inner stopper, designed to preserve the integrity and quality of the perfume while maintaining the bottle's seamless aesthetic. This bottle measures 4.25 inches wide from handle to handle and 2.75 inches tall.

In contrast, the smaller 0.5-ounce version retains the same elegant shape but without the frosted finish on the handles and over-cap. This variation offers a different, yet equally sophisticated, interpretation of the design, allowing the clarity of the crystal to stand out. Both sizes serve as beautiful tributes to the fragrance's exotic inspiration, making them not just containers, but treasured objects that enhance the overall experience of Shanghai parfum.

Clear crystal bottle, in the stylized shape of an ancient Chinese incense burner, with crystal inner stopper and amber bakelite over cap. This bottle came in several sizes: 1 oz, 0.5 oz

Clear crystal bottle in the stylized shape of an ancient Chinese incense burner, slightly different than the one shown above. Inner glass stopper and frosted glass over cap. Half ounce bottle stands 1 5/8" tall. one ounce bottle stands 2 1/2" tall.

Cute mini perfume, rectangular shaped clear glass bottle, molded with vertical lines, gold ball screw car. Yellow presentation case and label. Bottle stands 2 1/4" tall and was used for other perfumes.

Art Deco bottle with stepped frosted glass stopper. Bottle stands 3 1/8 inches tall by 2 3/8 inches wide.  It is contained inside a cream-colored box with gold foil stripes. This bottle was used for other perfumes.

Dimensions are: 4 inches tall by base is 1.5 inches wide but the curly sides make the bottle wider 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1967.