Pre Catelan c1949

Pré Catelan by Lenthéric, launched in 1949, takes its name from one of Paris’s most refined and poetic landmarks: the Pré Catelan, a historic garden tucked within the expansive Bois de Boulogne on the western edge of the city. Originally developed in the 19th century during the reign of Napoleon III, the Pré Catelan soon became a fashionable destination for elegant promenades, afternoon leisure, and social encounters among the Parisian elite. With its manicured lawns, graceful trees, and opulent Pavillon du Pré Catelan—a stately venue that still exists today—the area exudes an enduring charm associated with Belle Époque sophistication and the golden age of flirtation and refinement.

The phrase Pré Catelan is French, pronounced approximately as preh kah-teh-lahn (with a soft nasal “n” at the end). The word pré translates to “meadow” in English, while Catelan is a historical surname—possibly referring to a medieval poet or knight, although in this case, it is tied specifically to the name of the garden. Altogether, the phrase evokes a romantic and slightly mysterious mood: a pastoral glade made elegant by its history and cultural associations. It conjures images of soft greenery, warm light filtering through tree canopies, whispered conversations, silk parasols, and the rustle of petticoats. There is a certain timeless sensuality in the name, evoking not only a place but a mood—ephemeral, elegant, and tinged with longing.

Choosing Pré Catelan as the name for a perfume in 1949 was a deliberate nod to that world of bygone glamour. The late 1940s marked a significant transition period—Europe was emerging from the devastation of World War II, and in Paris, there was a strong desire to return to beauty, elegance, and luxury. This moment is often referred to as the beginning of the postwar Golden Age in fashion and design, culminating in the debut of Christian Dior’s iconic “New Look” in 1947. Dior’s style celebrated femininity and opulence with cinched waists, full skirts, and fine fabrics—an aesthetic that aligned perfectly with the romantic ideal suggested by Pré Catelan.

In perfumery, the late 1940s saw a revival of rich floral compositions, complex blends, and the increasing use of aldehydes to lend brightness, abstraction, or a shimmering, champagne-like quality to a scent. Lenthéric’s Pré Catelan fits into this context beautifully. A composition featuring rose, exotic woods, opoponax (a resinous, balsamic note often associated with warmth and sensuality), and green leafy accords suggests both a floral garden and the wooded paths of a secluded park. The inclusion of a mysterious aldehyde—used with what contemporary writers described as "carnal efficiency"—would have given the fragrance a modern, luminous quality, setting it apart from strictly classical florals.

To women in 1949, a perfume named Pré Catelan would have offered more than just scent; it was a portal to fantasy. It allowed wearers to inhabit a world of elegance and mystery, to imagine themselves strolling under the chestnut trees of the Bois de Boulogne, catching glances over a fan, or disappearing into a leafy garden with a secret. It was escapism and aspiration in a bottle—a means of reclaiming grace in a world still recovering its balance.

Though aldehydic florals were not uncommon during the postwar years, the artistic framing of Pré Catelan—both in name and composition—lent the fragrance a unique tone. Where others evoked overt glamour or classicism, Pré Catelan whispered of elegance filtered through memory, of beauty softened by time. In this sense, it stood apart: a perfume inspired not only by a place, but by the feeling of that place—its textures, moods, and associations.

In choosing the Pré Catelan as the inspiration for a fragrance, Lenthéric tapped into a reservoir of cultural meaning. It is a location famous not just for its beauty, but for what it represents in the Parisian imagination: a meeting place of nature and civilization, intimacy and display, flirtation and repose. By bottling that idea, Lenthéric gave wearers something more than perfume—it offered a scented reverie, the essence of a Parisian garden glimpsed through the veil of memory.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Pré Catelan is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Dutch tulip, green leaves, Calabrian bergamot, Paraguayan petitgrain, Italian neroli, cyclamen, Egyptian hyacinth, Persian galbanum
• Middle notes: Algerian jonquil, Grasse rose, Grasse jasmine, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Alpine lily of the valley, Tuscan violet, ionone, Florentine orris root
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Somali opoponax, Tibetan musk, ambergris, Java vetiver, Abyssinian civet, Canadian castoreum

Combat, 1955:

Odette Swann carried her parasol only when visiting the Pré Catelan. As she walked, the soft rustle of her petticoats released a tulip-like scent—delicate, yet intoxicating enough to turn the heads of mustachioed flâneurs at the Grévin Museum. A blend of roses, exotic woods, opoponax, and green leafy notes unfurls on the skin, all enlivened by an unknown aldehyde used with striking sensual effect. The fragrance, a true emblem of elegance, sweeps through the air like a polished gesture—glimmering, ephemeral—falling into the grass like firefly dust.

Scent Profile:

Pré Catelan unfolds like a walk through a spring garden suspended in time—delicate, refined, yet vividly alive. A masterwork of the aldehydic floral genre, this 1949 creation opens with a shimmering burst that seems to catch the light like silk in motion. It begins with aldehydes—those effervescent aroma chemicals introduced in early 20th-century perfumery that create a feeling of clean air and effervescent sparkle. Here, they do not stand alone. The aldehydes amplify the top notes like sunlight catching dew on new leaves, lending lift and brilliance to the greener and floral elements that follow.

The Dutch tulip, rarely captured in perfumery due to its subtle scent, appears here as a whisper of crushed petals—fresh, green, and slightly earthy, echoing the orderly beauty of springtime tulip fields in the Netherlands. The green leaves accord offers a sharply cut, sappy freshness, reminiscent of young stems just snapped in the hand. It is intensified by Persian galbanum, a resinous material known for its deeply green, almost bitter profile—an emerald-like note that lends structure and elegance to the opening. The Calabrian bergamot, sourced from the sun-soaked orchards of southern Italy, offers a crisp citrus sparkle with gentle floral undertones, far less sharp than lemon and with a characteristic roundness that dances atop the aldehydic fizz.

Paraguayan petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, brings a more herbaceous green-citrus counterpoint—drier and woodier than neroli, grounding the brightness of bergamot. In contrast, Italian neroli, steam-distilled from the blossoms of the same tree, lends an ethereal floral lightness—innocent and luminous, with a silken orange blossom nuance. Supporting these are cyclamen and Egyptian hyacinth, both reimagined through modern synthetics to evoke water-fresh petals. Cyclamen contributes a breezy, aquatic floralcy, while the hyacinth is richer and more narcotic—green and waxy with a slight sharpness that foreshadows the heart of the fragrance.

As the composition settles, it deepens into a luminous heart brimming with floral grandeur. Algerian jonquil, a variety of narcissus, exudes a honeyed, animalic warmth—intensely rich and narcotic with a trace of indole. The Grasse rose—grown in the fabled fields of southern France—is harvested in May and known for its balance of sweetness and spiced fruitiness. Its lush petals are mirrored by the Grasse jasmine, heady and creamy, its indolic facets softened by the aldehydic top. The blend is further enriched by Nossi-Bé ylang-ylang, an exotic export from this small Madagascan island, celebrated for its full-bodied, banana-like floral character—rich, velvety, and sensual.

We pass through cooler shade as Alpine lily of the valley offers a tender, bell-like freshness—light, dewy, and clean. It is flanked by the shy sweetness of Tuscan violet, with its green, powdery facets evoked largely through ionones—synthetic molecules derived from orris that recreate violet's elusive perfume, linking the flower to its more grounded kin. These ionones usher in the dusky, velvety depth of Florentine orris root, prized for its high irone content and known for its soft, buttery, and gently woody aroma. This heart is not simply floral—it breathes with warmth, texture, and intimacy.

As Pré Catelan moves into its final act, the base reveals a restrained, elegant sensuality. Mysore sandalwood, once widely used before being restricted, is revered for its creamy, slightly smoky woodiness, with an incense-like quality that anchors the florals. The Somali opoponax, sometimes called sweet myrrh, adds a golden, balsamic softness—a sweet resin with almost caramel-like depth. A trio of animalic notes provides vintage warmth and dimension: Tibetan musk, once derived from musk deer, lends velvety depth and skin-like intimacy (likely recreated with nitro musks or muscone in later formulas). Abyssinian civet, once obtained from civet cats, imparts a rich, fecal warmth that, in trace amounts, makes florals feel more alive, more human. Canadian castoreum, from the scent glands of beavers, adds a leathery, smoky nuance—evocative of gloves, old books, or worn-in suede

Threading through all of this is the ghostly, oceanic shimmer of ambergris—a treasure of the sea, used for its ability to fix scent and lend an almost unearthly radiance. And finally, Java vetiver—earthy, dry, and a touch smoky—grounds the composition with a faint trace of roots and soil, like the distant memory of the garden path behind you.

Fate of the Fragrance:

 Pré Catelan by Lenthéric is more than a perfume—it is a living memory, a fragrant echo of two elegant eras. Originally launched in 1914, just as the Belle Époque drew to a close and the world braced for change, Pré Catelan first embodied the delicacy and charm of early 20th-century French perfumery: gentle florals, classical harmony, and an air of genteel femininity. Decades later, in 1949, the fragrance was reformulated and relaunched, now embracing modern innovations in perfumery—most notably, the radiant sparkle of aldehydes and a more sophisticated interplay of natural essences with new synthetic molecules.

The 1949 version speaks to a different mood and a different woman: one shaped by the war years, now returning to glamour, grace, and optimism. It opens with a shimmering aldehydic overture—cool, fizzy, and luminous—bringing a champagne-like effervescence to the surface. These aldehydes, synthetic compounds that became signature elements in mid-century perfumery, do more than dazzle; they elevate every floral and green note to a state of brightness and modernity.

This brightness lays the groundwork for a freshly-cut bouquet that includes the rare and subtle Dutch tulip, whose gently green and barely sweet profile evokes springtime formality, while green leaves, cyclamen, and Egyptian hyacinth add crushed-stem freshness and watery coolness. Calabrian bergamot, crisp and citrusy with floral undertones, mingles with the herbal citrus of Paraguayan petitgrain and the honeyed white-blossom purity of Italian neroli. Together, these notes recreate the feeling of stepping into a sunlit park after a rain—the very essence of the Pré Catelan garden, nestled within the Bois de Boulogne.

At the heart lies a romantic profusion of flowers drawn from across the globe, each chosen not only for its aroma but for its origin. Algerian jonquil offers narcotic richness with a touch of hay-like warmth, while Grasse rose and Grasse jasmine—hallmarks of French perfumery—bring plush, indolic depth. The exotic Nossi-Bé ylang ylang, from Madagascar, unfolds with a creamy, spicy sweetness that intensifies the sultry mood. Lily of the valley, delicate and green, adds innocence, and Tuscan violet deepens the floral heart with its powdery, nostalgic tenderness. The addition of ionones, synthetic violet-smelling molecules derived from orris root, enhances this impression and links to the cool, elegant Florentine orris, famed for its buttery, woody iris facets.

As the fragrance warms on skin, it reveals a sensuous base steeped in traditional luxury. Mysore sandalwood, rich and milky with sacred undertones, blends into the golden resin of Somali opoponax, offering a sweet myrrh-like softness. Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, and Canadian castoreum, in trace amounts, contribute an animalic hum that, rather than overwhelming, serves to lend lifelike warmth and depth to the bouquet—giving the impression of flowers warmed on skin, worn close. Ambergris lends a saline glow and extends the composition’s radiance, while Java vetiver provides an earthy, smoky base note—evoking the grounding scent of the wooded paths that surround the gardens of Paris.

In sum, the 1949 Pré Catelan represents the natural evolution of a classic—reborn into a postwar world with elegance, innovation, and a renewed appreciation for beauty. By weaving aldehydic sparkle into the fabric of lush florals and noble woods, Lenthéric created not merely a perfume, but a sensory portrait of Parisian grace—timeless, luminous, and forever in bloom.

Pré Catelan by Lenthéric is a discontinued fragrance, though its precise discontinuation date remains unknown. What is known is that the scent was still actively sold and advertised as late as 1955, indicating its continued popularity into the postwar years. Its longevity on the market suggests it held a special place among Lenthéric's offerings, appealing to women drawn to its elegant, refined character. Though modern documentation is scarce, surviving bottles and advertisements confirm its presence during a pivotal era in perfumery—when aldehydic florals were at their height and French houses were establishing their post-war identities. Pré Catelan’s disappearance from shelves in the years following 1955 marks the end of an era, but the fragrance remains a testament to Lenthéric’s ability to balance classic charm with mid-century innovation. Its absence today only heightens its allure among collectors and perfume historians alike.