Parfum Ambre Mousse by Lentheric c1911

Parfum Ambre Mousse by Lentheric, launched in 1911 and introduced to the U.S. market by 1916, represents a fascinating blend of natural elements and refined elegance, emblematic of the period. The name "Ambre Mousse" is derived from French, with "Ambre" meaning amber and "Mousse" translating to moss. Pronounced "Ahmbr Mooss," the name evokes a sense of rich, earthy luxury, suggesting a fragrance rooted in nature yet elevated by the mystique of ambergris, a highly valued perfume ingredient of the time.

The term "Ambre Mousse" conjures images of deep forests, where the ground is carpeted with soft, green moss, and the air is infused with the warm, resinous scent of amber. This combination of ambergris and oakmoss would have been interpreted as a sophisticated and slightly mysterious scent, blending the warmth and depth of amber with the earthy, grounding notes of moss. The word itself, "Ambre Mousse," suggests a fragrance that is both natural and luxurious, appealing to a woman's desire for something unique yet timeless.

During the early 20th century, women were increasingly seeking fragrances that reflected their individuality and modernity. The era was marked by a fascination with exoticism and a growing interest in nature-inspired scents. Parfum Ambre Mousse was unique for its time, as it combined the rare and precious ambergris with the evocative scent of oakmoss, offering a departure from the more floral and powdery perfumes that were common in the market. It would have been perceived as a bold choice, appealing to women who were confident, adventurous, and in tune with the natural world.

The early 1910s were a time of transition in the world of perfumery, with a shift towards more complex and layered compositions. While many fragrances of the time were still rooted in the floral traditions of the 19th century, Ambre Mousse stood out for its use of earthy, woody notes, which were beginning to gain popularity. This fragrance would have been seen as both modern and slightly avant-garde, resonating with the emerging trends of the time while also offering something distinctly different.

In conclusion, Lentheric's choice of the name "Ambre Mousse" was a reflection of the fragrance's composition and its intended audience—women who appreciated the richness of amber and the earthy elegance of oakmoss. It was a scent that captured the essence of nature, while also embodying the sophistication and allure that women of the time were beginning to embrace.

1925 ad

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was an ambergris and oakmoss perfume for women.

• Top notes: reseda, rose geranium
• Middle notes: rose, orange blossom, jasmine, orris
• Base notes: ambergris, oakmoss, musk, vanilla, patchouli, styrax, benzoin, civet

Scent Profile:

As the first notes of Parfum Ambre Mousse touch the air, the fresh and vibrant aroma of reseda greets you, a scent reminiscent of a spring garden in full bloom. Reseda, with its delicate green and slightly spicy undertones, mingles effortlessly with the crisp, aromatic scent of rose geranium. 

The geranium adds a rosy, minty sharpness that complements the floral greenery of reseda, creating an initial impression that is both uplifting and invigorating, like the first rays of sunlight filtering through the morning dew.

As the fragrance begins to unfold, the heart notes reveal themselves in a lush bouquet. The timeless elegance of rose emerges, soft and velvety, carrying with it a sense of romance and classic femininity. The rose is quickly joined by the sweet and slightly citrusy allure of orange blossom, which adds a touch of freshness, like a gentle breeze on a warm afternoon. 

Jasmine follows, with its intoxicating, creamy sweetness, enveloping the senses in a luxurious embrace. The orris root, with its powdery and slightly earthy aroma, grounds the florals, adding a touch of sophistication and depth, reminiscent of a vintage powder box, delicate and refined.

As the scent settles into its base, the true character of Parfum Ambre Mousse is revealed. The ambergris, rich and resinous, evokes images of warm, sun-soaked shores, its scent both animalic and subtly sweet. It mingles with the earthy, forest-floor aroma of oakmoss, which adds a deep, mossy greenness that feels both grounding and mysterious. 

The musk brings a sensual warmth to the composition, while vanilla adds a creamy sweetness that softens the more intense notes. Patchouli introduces a woody, slightly spicy element, blending with the smoky, balsamic scent of styrax and the warm, sweet aroma of benzoin. Finally, a hint of civet lends an animalic depth, creating an undercurrent of primal allure that lingers long after the fragrance has settled.

Together, these notes create a scent that is both complex and harmonious, each ingredient adding its unique character to the composition. Parfum Ambre Mousse is a journey through time and nature, a fragrance that captures the essence of ambergris and oakmoss while weaving together the beauty of flowers, the warmth of resins, and the allure of animalic notes. It is a perfume that speaks of elegance, mystery, and timeless femininity.

Bottles:

The Parfum Ambre Mousse by Lentheric was housed in an exquisite flacon designed by the renowned Cristalleries de Baccarat, a hallmark of luxury and craftsmanship. The bottle, designated as number No. 298, features intricate blue details that accentuate its elegant form. The design, attributed to Jules Habert-Dys, reflects the Art Nouveau aesthetic, characterized by flowing lines and nature-inspired motifs. The bottle's petite stature, standing just 0.5 inches tall, belies the richness of the fragrance it contains, making it a true jewel of early 20th-century perfumery. This presentation is known as the "Presentation DeLuxe."

A variant of this flacon was available in clear crystal with rose or green overlay crystal at the canted corners, further enhancing its visual appeal. The rose or green overlay adds a touch of sophistication, with the contrasting colors drawing attention to the bottle’s delicate details. This design choice not only exemplifies the era’s fondness for luxurious materials but also highlights the exceptional skill of Baccarat’s glassmakers in creating objects that were as much works of art as they were functional containers.

The bottle’s label is a whimsical depiction of a woman riding a whale, an image that captures the imagination and lends a sense of fantasy to the fragrance. This unusual and evocative illustration adds to the bottle’s allure, hinting at the mysterious and otherworldly nature of the perfume within. The combination of the label’s imagery with the refined design of the bottle creates a captivating contrast, merging the playful with the sophisticated.

Collectors and perfume enthusiasts may find the bottle with one of two closure options: either a precisely cut glass stopper, showcasing Baccarat’s mastery in glasswork, or a brass overcap with a small glass inner stopper. The cut glass stopper emphasizes the purity and clarity of the crystal, while the brass overcap, with its warm, metallic sheen, adds an element of antique charm. Each version of the bottle offers its own unique appeal, making it a sought-after item for those who appreciate the finer details of early perfumery design.

In summary, the flacon for Parfum Ambre Mousse is a remarkable example of early 20th-century craftsmanship and design. With its intricate blue details, rose or green overlay crystal corners, and the enchanting label, this bottle is not only a vessel for perfume but a reflection of the artistry and imagination that defined the era. Whether topped with a glass stopper or a brass overcap, the flacon remains a timeless piece, cherished by collectors and admired for its beauty and historical significance.

1929 Lentheric Perfume catalog page:

From a 1929 Lentheric catalog, Ambre Mousse was available in the following, with original prices:

Extract (boxed):

• No. 2640 - 1/2 oz - $4.00
• No. 1640 - 1 oz - $7.00
• No. 640 - 2 oz - $12.50
• No. 641 - De Luxe Presentation- $15.00

Toilet Water:

• No. 650 - 4 oz - $4.50
• No. 651 - 8 oz - $8.00
• No. 652 - 16 oz - $14.00

Face Powder (with puff):

• No. 105 - $1.00
• Naturelle No. 1
• Naturelle No. 2
• Rachel No. 1
• Rachel No. 2
• Blanche

Sachet:

• No. 140 - 1 oz - $2.00

Fate of the Fragrance:

Parfum Ambre Mousse by Lentheric, though celebrated in its time, eventually became a discontinued treasure, with its exact date of discontinuation shrouded in mystery. Records show that the fragrance was still available for purchase as late as 1932, but by then, it was being offered at discounted prices. This suggests that while the perfume retained a presence in the market, its popularity had waned, possibly overshadowed by newer, more contemporary scents.

The decision to discount the perfume in 1932 likely indicates that Lentheric was phasing out the fragrance, perhaps due to changing trends in the perfume industry or a shift in consumer preferences. By the early 1930s, the world of perfumery was evolving, with new innovations and styles coming to the forefront. The fact that Parfum Ambre Mousse was still sold, albeit at a reduced price, speaks to its enduring appeal among a certain segment of customers who appreciated its unique composition and classic charm.

Despite its discontinuation, Parfum Ambre Mousse remains a cherished memory in the history of perfumery. Its legacy is preserved not only in the bottles that survive but also in the stories and sentiments of those who once wore it. Today, it stands as a testament to a bygone era, a fragrance that captured the essence of its time but ultimately became a relic of the past, remembered fondly by collectors and enthusiasts alike.