Coeur de Paris by Lentheric c1911

Launched in 1911, Cœur de Paris by Lentheric stands as a fragrant homage to the city often called the heart of the world—Paris. The name, meaning "Heart of Paris" in French, was undoubtedly chosen to evoke the romance, sophistication, and timeless beauty that the city embodies. Paris, known for its rich culture, iconic landmarks, and the very essence of elegance, has long been the muse for artists, writers, and perfumers alike. Naming a fragrance Cœur de Paris was a deliberate choice to connect with the emotional and cultural resonance that Paris holds, particularly for women who dreamed of the city’s charm and allure.

The phrase "Cœur de Paris" conjures images of Parisian boulevards lined with chic boutiques, the Seine River flowing gently under historic bridges, and the grandeur of landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame Cathedral. It suggests a deep emotional connection to the city, embodying the spirit of Paris as the epicenter of art, fashion, and romance. For women of the time, Cœur de Paris would have represented more than just a fragrance; it was an invitation to experience the very soul of Paris, even if they had never set foot there.

In scent, Cœur de Paris would be interpreted as a delicate and sophisticated floral bouquet—a reflection of Parisian gardens, vibrant with blossoms and the gentle breeze of the Seine. The fragrance likely captured the essence of freshly picked flowers, evoking the elegance of Parisian women and the refined tastes of the era. Women wearing Cœur de Paris would have felt a connection to the cosmopolitan life of the city, enveloping themselves in a scent that mirrored the grace and poise they admired.

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The year 1911 was a period marked by significant cultural and social changes. In the world of perfumery, it was an era when complex, richly layered floral fragrances were in vogue. Cœur de Paris was classified as a floral bouquet fragrance, aligning it with the trends of the time. However, its association with Paris added a unique dimension, setting it apart from other perfumes on the market. While many fragrances of the era focused on opulent, heavy scents, Cœur de Paris likely offered a more delicate, yet still sophisticated, alternative. It would have appealed to women who desired a fragrance that was both timeless and modern, capturing the essence of Paris itself.

In this context, Cœur de Paris was not just a perfume but a statement—a way for women to express their connection to the cultural and emotional heart of France. It was a fragrance that allowed them to carry a piece of Paris with them, wherever they went, embodying the elegance and allure of the city in every drop.

"Any new perfume prepared by the well known house of Lentheric is always sure to meet with immediate success. This celebrated perfumer's latest creation Coeur de Paris (Heart of Paris) is composed of extracts from fresh flowers lasting and subdued. 

The new perfume at once captivated fashionable Paris just as the City of Light itself seduces and captivates its visitors. Hence its name. 

If one recalls the splendid spectacle presented by a sunset behind the Arc de Triomphe, to be seen when walking up the most beautiful avenue in the world, no one can be surprised that it inspired Lentheric, always on the lookout for a new and original idea. 

In fact, are not the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysees the very centre of elegant and fashionable Paris-- the very heart of Paris? That is why Lentheric created the “Coeur de Paris” perfume-- that its name and brand might ever evoke the souvenir of the Champs Elysees glorious monument. It is a perfume that will soon be found on the toilet table of every woman who knows and insists on the best."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral bouquet fragrance for women. I am using a vintage 1940's Shanghai perfume nip to review this perfume, and I detect aldehydes in this example, which were probably used in the 1934 remake of Coeur de Paris for Shanghai. This is a beautiful perfume, very powdery and soapy with the amber and aldehydes, I also think I detect bee pollen.

• Top notes: bergamot, cinnamon, clove
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: frankincense, oakmoss, myrrh, ambergris, musk, sandalwood

Scent Profile:

Cœur de Paris, a floral bouquet fragrance, unfolds with an enchanting complexity, starting with its vibrant top notes. As you first encounter this scent, the bright and zesty burst of bergamot envelops you, its citrusy freshness akin to the first light of dawn glimmering on Parisian streets. 

This uplifting citrus is soon joined by the warm, spicy richness of cinnamon, evoking the comforting aroma of freshly baked pastries in a quaint Parisian café. The subtle, yet piquant, clove adds a touch of depth and intrigue, reminiscent of a bustling market where exotic spices mingle in the air.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals its opulent floral bouquet. The carnation emerges with its sweet, peppery scent, reminiscent of a meticulously arranged flower shop in the heart of Paris. This is gracefully complemented by the lush, romantic aroma of jasmine, its heady, intoxicating notes conjuring images of moonlit evenings in Parisian gardens. The Bulgarian rose, known for its rich, velvety scent, adds a touch of classic elegance and sophistication, reminiscent of a lavish bouquet received on a special occasion.

The base notes of Cœur de Paris anchor the fragrance with their deep, resonant qualities. The frankincense brings a warm, resinous aroma that invokes the sacred and timeless, much like the serene beauty of historic Parisian cathedrals. Oakmoss adds a touch of earthy richness, reminiscent of strolling through a lush forest on the outskirts of the city, while myrrh imparts a complex, balsamic sweetness that adds an exotic, almost mystical quality. 

Ambergris, with its unique, musky sweetness, evokes the luxurious feel of vintage Parisian perfumery, adding an aura of refined opulence. Finally, the sandalwood provides a creamy, woody finish, grounding the fragrance with its smooth, warm richness, like the polished wooden floors of a grand Parisian salon.

In Cœur de Paris, each ingredient harmoniously blends to create a fragrance that is both evocative and sophisticated. The interplay of bright citrus, warm spices, and lush florals, underpinned by deep, resinous notes, captures the essence of Parisian elegance and romance, allowing you to experience the heart of the city with every breath.

Bottles:

Cœur de Paris was elegantly encased in a glass flacon, a masterful creation by Cristalleries de Baccarat, and designed by the renowned Jules Habert-Dys. This exquisite bottle is adorned with overlaid crystal at the edges, lending it a refined and sophisticated appearance that reflects the high craftsmanship of Baccarat. The glasswork’s clarity and brilliance highlight the luxurious nature of the fragrance contained within, making it as much a visual delight as a sensory one.

The bottle is further distinguished by its golden heart-shaped label, which features an embossed image of the Arc de Triomphe. This iconic Parisian monument, symbolizing the grandeur and enduring spirit of the French capital, elegantly ties the fragrance to the essence of Paris. The choice of the Arc de Triomphe not only celebrates the city’s architectural and historical legacy but also serves as a fitting tribute to the heart of Paris encapsulated in the fragrance.

The flacon can be found in two variations, each offering a unique touch of elegance. One version is topped with a cut glass stopper, its intricate facets catching and refracting light, enhancing the overall sophistication of the presentation. The other variation features a brass overcap with a small glass inner stopper, combining the warmth of metal with the delicate transparency of glass. This dual option adds a layer of versatility and customization to the bottle’s presentation, catering to varied aesthetic preferences while maintaining the luxurious charm that defines Cœur de Paris.

Together, these design elements make the bottle not just a container but a statement piece, reflecting the opulence and romance of the fragrance within. The attention to detail in both the bottle’s craftsmanship and its symbolic label ensures that Cœur de Paris is as captivating in its presentation as it is in its scent.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1934, as part of a strategic shift, Cœur de Paris underwent a significant transformation. With older stock being phased out, the fragrance was renamed Shanghai and introduced to the market in a new guise. This rebranding was not merely a change of name but also an opportunity to present the perfume in an entirely fresh and captivating way.

The reimagined Shanghai was housed in an exquisitely designed vase inspired by Chinese artistry. The new packaging featured intricate, Asian-inspired motifs that evoked the elegance and mystery of the Orient. This transition was more than just aesthetic; it was a reflection of a broader cultural fascination with China during the period, capturing the allure of the East in a beautifully crafted vessel.

The vase, with its delicate patterns and vibrant colors, was a striking departure from the earlier European designs. Its refined, yet exotic charm offered a new way to experience the beloved fragrance, appealing to both collectors and enthusiasts drawn to the novel presentation. The deeply discounted prices at which this old stock was sold added a layer of accessibility, allowing more people to enjoy the luxurious scent of Shanghai at a fraction of its original cost.

In essence, the rebranding of Cœur de Paris to Shanghai and its repackaging in a Chinese-styled vase not only refreshed the fragrance's appeal but also embraced a sense of global sophistication. This strategic move ensured that the perfume continued to captivate its audience, blending classic elegance with an exciting new identity.