Au Fil de L'Eau by Lentheric, first introduced in 1885 and later relaunched in 1925, is a name that embodies the serene beauty of flowing water. The phrase "Au Fil de L'Eau" is French, translating to "Along the Water's Edge" or more poetically, "As the Water Flows." This evocative name conjures images of a tranquil river meandering through a lush, green landscape, or perhaps the gentle lapping of waves against a peaceful shore. It speaks to the natural, effortless elegance that Lentheric sought to capture in this fragrance.
The choice of this name would have resonated deeply with the sensibilities of the time. In the late 19th century, and even more so in the 1920s, there was a growing appreciation for the beauty of nature and the desire to capture its essence in everyday life. "Au Fil de L'Eau" suggests a connection to the natural world, invoking a sense of calm, fluidity, and grace. It evokes emotions of relaxation and reflection, offering a respite from the hustle and bustle of modern life, and inviting the wearer to drift along in a state of peaceful contemplation.
Interpreted in scent, "Au Fil de L'Eau" would likely be a delicate, aquatic fragrance, with notes that mirror the freshness and purity of water. It might include clean, airy accords reminiscent of morning dew or a soft breeze over a clear lake, complemented by subtle green notes that evoke the scent of leaves and grass by the water's edge. Floral notes, perhaps lily of the valley or water lily, would add a gentle sweetness, enhancing the sense of a serene, natural environment. The overall composition would be light, fresh, and soothing—an olfactory journey along the water’s edge.
For women of the late 19th century and the 1920s, a perfume named "Au Fil de L'Eau" would have held particular appeal. In 1885, when the fragrance was first launched, it would have been seen as a reflection of the Romantic era's fascination with nature and the sublime. By the time of its relaunch in 1925, the world had changed dramatically, yet the desire for connection to nature remained strong, especially as society recovered from the devastation of World War I. The 1920s were a time of liberation and modernity, but also a period when many sought to reconnect with simpler, more peaceful times. A fragrance like "Au Fil de L'Eau" would have offered a sense of purity and calm, standing in contrast to the more opulent or heady perfumes of the time.
The period in which this perfume was relaunched, the 1920s, was marked by significant cultural shifts. The era of Art Deco was in full swing, celebrating both modernity and elegance. Perfumes were becoming an essential part of a woman's identity, and there was a trend towards more refined and sophisticated scents. "Au Fil de L'Eau" fit perfectly into this context, offering a refreshing and serene alternative to the more intense fragrances popular in the previous decades. It appealed to the modern woman who embraced change and independence but still valued a connection to nature and the tranquility it represented.
In choosing the name "Au Fil de L'Eau," Lentheric created a fragrance that was timeless, offering women a sensory escape to a place of calm and beauty, where they could momentarily leave behind the complexities of their world and drift along with the soothing flow of nature.
In the publication "Le monde des affaires en France de 1830 à nos jours," Jacques Boudet highlighted the significant allure and prestige associated with Lentheric's fragrances. Among the many stories of these luxurious perfumes, one particularly captivating detail is that Au Fil de L'Eau was reputed to be one of the favorite fragrances of the Queen of Spain. This endorsement from royalty not only elevated the fragrance's status but also underscored its timeless appeal and delicate sophistication. The Queen's preference for Au Fil de L'Eau reflects the fragrance's ability to capture the essence of grace and serenity, qualities that undoubtedly resonated with her refined sensibilities.
The same publication also sheds light on another of Lentheric's creations, La Féria, which was designed specifically for the Czar of Russia. This fragrance was not merely a personal indulgence for the Czar but was intended as a gift for the dames d'honneur, the esteemed ladies of honor at the Russian imperial court. These aristocratic women, who served in close proximity to the imperial family, were organized according to the strict hierarchy established by Peter the Great, which dictated their roles and status within the court.
The choice of La Féria as a gift for these influential women reflects the Czar's appreciation for Lentheric's ability to create fragrances that conveyed both opulence and exclusivity. The dames d'honneur, as key figures in the court, would have appreciated the gesture, recognizing the fragrance as a symbol of their elevated status and the Czar's favor. The intricately structured world of the Russian court, with its deep traditions and rigid hierarchy, was a fitting backdrop for such a luxurious and thoughtful gift, one that would further enhance the prestige of those who received it.
These stories from Boudet's account illustrate not only the high regard in which Lentheric's fragrances were held by European royalty but also the significant role that scent played in the courtly traditions and personal expressions of the era. Both Au Fil de L'Eau and La Féria exemplify Lentheric's mastery in crafting perfumes that resonated with the most discerning and influential figures of the time, leaving a lasting legacy in the world of luxury fragrance.
Some Lentheric perfume advertisements intriguingly suggest that Lotus d'Or was actually Au Fil de L'Eau under a different name. This raises the possibility that Au Fil de L'Eau was renamed Lotus d'Or at some point, or perhaps the two fragrances were sold under different names in various countries. Such practices were not uncommon in the early 20th century, as perfume houses often adapted their products to suit the preferences and cultural nuances of different markets.
Adding to this connection, both Au Fil de L'Eau and Lotus d'Or were housed in the same flacon, indicating a strong link between the two. The shared packaging not only hints at a shared identity but also reinforces the idea that the essence of Au Fil de L'Eau—a fragrance evoking the gentle flow of water and the serene beauty of nature—was preserved in Lotus d'Or. Whether the fragrances were identical or simply closely related, the continuity in the flacon's design suggests a deliberate effort to maintain the luxurious and elegant image that Lentheric was known for.
If Au Fil de L'Eau was indeed rebranded as Lotus d'Or, this could have been a strategic move to appeal to different audiences or to align with cultural symbols more resonant in certain regions. The name Lotus d'Or, or "Golden Lotus," conjures images of purity, beauty, and opulence—qualities that would have strongly appealed to women seeking a fragrance that embodied both natural grace and refined luxury. The lotus, a flower often associated with spiritual enlightenment and serenity, paired with the golden hue, suggests a perfume that is both precious and transcendent.
This potential renaming reflects Lentheric’s adaptability and keen understanding of the global market, allowing the brand to maintain its allure and relevance across different regions. Whether known as Au Fil de L'Eau or Lotus d'Or, the fragrance would have continued to captivate women with its delicate blend of freshness and sophistication, offering a sensory experience that transported them to a world of tranquil natural beauty. The subtle shifts in branding underscore Lentheric’s ability to craft perfumes that not only resonated with the tastes of their time but also transcended geographical and cultural boundaries, making them timeless favorites across the globe.
"Lentheric is the creator of parfums Lotus d'Or, Miracle, Asphodèle, Pirate, Forêt Vierge, and Au Fil de L'eau, and a complete assortment of dressing table, bath and handbag requisites featured at stores of distinction."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft, sweet, light floral bouquet fragrance for women with a dominant lily of the valley note. It was recommended to be worn by "sophisticated users of perfume." According to 1930s newspaper ads, in addition to the narcissus and lily of the valley, the fragrance was composed of over 90 other floral fragrances.
- Top notes: narcissus
- Middle notes: lily of the valley
- Base notes:
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Bottles:
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Frosted glass bottle, squat and disk shaped, molded with a floral frieze along the middle, frosted stopper molded with a flower. Presented in a black and gold box. This bottle was also used for Lentheric's "Au Fil de L'Eau" perfume (with a green glass stopper). Stands 2.75" tall.
Extract was available in
- 1/2 oz
- 1 oz
- 2 oz
- 4 oz
- 8 oz
1929 Lentheric Perfume catalog page:
Also presented in a controlled bubble glass bottle, made in Czechoslovakia in 1935. This bottle can be found in different colors for different perfumes by Lentheric, cerulean blue for Miracle, softened rose for Lotus D'Or, green for Le Pirate, green for Au Fil de L'Eau, green for Foret Vierge, mirror clear for Asphodele, champagne for Tweed, and Numero Douze in amber. Bottle stands 4" tall.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown.
