La Danse des Parfums Lentheric c1936

La Danse des Parfums Lentheric, was an elaborate semi-classical dance program interpreting the leading Lentheric perfumes - Tweed, Shanghai, a Bientot, Miracle,  Anticipation, Numero Douze, Carnation and Muguet, all within the span of one hour. The performances were a way to express the individuality and mood of each perfume employing a three dimensional effect. Exquisite stage costumes (including Capezio Shoes and MaharamTheatrical Fabrics), beautiful lighting effects, and appropriate music combined to make for a outstanding program. These performances were a promotional plan offered to the leading department stores, such as Block's and John Wanamakers, to advertise the Lentheric perfumes. 

Anticipation c1937

Anticipation by Lentheric: launched in 1937.

Au Fil de L'Eau by Lentheric c1885

Au Fil de L'Eau by Lentheric, first introduced in 1885 and later relaunched in 1925, is a name that embodies the serene beauty of flowing water. The phrase "Au Fil de L'Eau" is French, translating to "Along the Water's Edge" or more poetically, "As the Water Flows." This evocative name conjures images of a tranquil river meandering through a lush, green landscape, or perhaps the gentle lapping of waves against a peaceful shore. It speaks to the natural, effortless elegance that Lentheric sought to capture in this fragrance.

The choice of this name would have resonated deeply with the sensibilities of the time. In the late 19th century, and even more so in the 1920s, there was a growing appreciation for the beauty of nature and the desire to capture its essence in everyday life. "Au Fil de L'Eau" suggests a connection to the natural world, invoking a sense of calm, fluidity, and grace. It evokes emotions of relaxation and reflection, offering a respite from the hustle and bustle of modern life, and inviting the wearer to drift along in a state of peaceful contemplation.

Interpreted in scent, "Au Fil de L'Eau" would likely be a delicate, aquatic fragrance, with notes that mirror the freshness and purity of water. It might include clean, airy accords reminiscent of morning dew or a soft breeze over a clear lake, complemented by subtle green notes that evoke the scent of leaves and grass by the water's edge. Floral notes, perhaps lily of the valley or water lily, would add a gentle sweetness, enhancing the sense of a serene, natural environment. The overall composition would be light, fresh, and soothing—an olfactory journey along the water’s edge.

For women of the late 19th century and the 1920s, a perfume named "Au Fil de L'Eau" would have held particular appeal. In 1885, when the fragrance was first launched, it would have been seen as a reflection of the Romantic era's fascination with nature and the sublime. By the time of its relaunch in 1925, the world had changed dramatically, yet the desire for connection to nature remained strong, especially as society recovered from the devastation of World War I. The 1920s were a time of liberation and modernity, but also a period when many sought to reconnect with simpler, more peaceful times. A fragrance like "Au Fil de L'Eau" would have offered a sense of purity and calm, standing in contrast to the more opulent or heady perfumes of the time.

The period in which this perfume was relaunched, the 1920s, was marked by significant cultural shifts. The era of Art Deco was in full swing, celebrating both modernity and elegance. Perfumes were becoming an essential part of a woman's identity, and there was a trend towards more refined and sophisticated scents. "Au Fil de L'Eau" fit perfectly into this context, offering a refreshing and serene alternative to the more intense fragrances popular in the previous decades. It appealed to the modern woman who embraced change and independence but still valued a connection to nature and the tranquility it represented.

In choosing the name "Au Fil de L'Eau," Lentheric created a fragrance that was timeless, offering women a sensory escape to a place of calm and beauty, where they could momentarily leave behind the complexities of their world and drift along with the soothing flow of nature.

In the publication "Le monde des affaires en France de 1830 à nos jours," Jacques Boudet highlighted the significant allure and prestige associated with Lentheric's fragrances. Among the many stories of these luxurious perfumes, one particularly captivating detail is that Au Fil de L'Eau was reputed to be one of the favorite fragrances of the Queen of Spain. This endorsement from royalty not only elevated the fragrance's status but also underscored its timeless appeal and delicate sophistication. The Queen's preference for Au Fil de L'Eau reflects the fragrance's ability to capture the essence of grace and serenity, qualities that undoubtedly resonated with her refined sensibilities.

The same publication also sheds light on another of Lentheric's creations, La Féria, which was designed specifically for the Czar of Russia. This fragrance was not merely a personal indulgence for the Czar but was intended as a gift for the dames d'honneur, the esteemed ladies of honor at the Russian imperial court. These aristocratic women, who served in close proximity to the imperial family, were organized according to the strict hierarchy established by Peter the Great, which dictated their roles and status within the court.

The choice of La Féria as a gift for these influential women reflects the Czar's appreciation for Lentheric's ability to create fragrances that conveyed both opulence and exclusivity. The dames d'honneur, as key figures in the court, would have appreciated the gesture, recognizing the fragrance as a symbol of their elevated status and the Czar's favor. The intricately structured world of the Russian court, with its deep traditions and rigid hierarchy, was a fitting backdrop for such a luxurious and thoughtful gift, one that would further enhance the prestige of those who received it.

These stories from Boudet's account illustrate not only the high regard in which Lentheric's fragrances were held by European royalty but also the significant role that scent played in the courtly traditions and personal expressions of the era. Both Au Fil de L'Eau and La Féria exemplify Lentheric's mastery in crafting perfumes that resonated with the most discerning and influential figures of the time, leaving a lasting legacy in the world of luxury fragrance.

Some Lentheric perfume advertisements intriguingly suggest that Lotus d'Or was actually Au Fil de L'Eau under a different name. This raises the possibility that Au Fil de L'Eau was renamed Lotus d'Or at some point, or perhaps the two fragrances were sold under different names in various countries. Such practices were not uncommon in the early 20th century, as perfume houses often adapted their products to suit the preferences and cultural nuances of different markets.

Adding to this connection, both Au Fil de L'Eau and Lotus d'Or were housed in the same flacon, indicating a strong link between the two. The shared packaging not only hints at a shared identity but also reinforces the idea that the essence of Au Fil de L'Eau—a fragrance evoking the gentle flow of water and the serene beauty of nature—was preserved in Lotus d'Or. Whether the fragrances were identical or simply closely related, the continuity in the flacon's design suggests a deliberate effort to maintain the luxurious and elegant image that Lentheric was known for.

If Au Fil de L'Eau was indeed rebranded as Lotus d'Or, this could have been a strategic move to appeal to different audiences or to align with cultural symbols more resonant in certain regions. The name Lotus d'Or, or "Golden Lotus," conjures images of purity, beauty, and opulence—qualities that would have strongly appealed to women seeking a fragrance that embodied both natural grace and refined luxury. The lotus, a flower often associated with spiritual enlightenment and serenity, paired with the golden hue, suggests a perfume that is both precious and transcendent.

This potential renaming reflects Lentheric’s adaptability and keen understanding of the global market, allowing the brand to maintain its allure and relevance across different regions. Whether known as Au Fil de L'Eau or Lotus d'Or, the fragrance would have continued to captivate women with its delicate blend of freshness and sophistication, offering a sensory experience that transported them to a world of tranquil natural beauty. The subtle shifts in branding underscore Lentheric’s ability to craft perfumes that not only resonated with the tastes of their time but also transcended geographical and cultural boundaries, making them timeless favorites across the globe.

Harper's Bazaar, 1931:

"Lentheric is the creator of parfums Lotus d'Or, Miracle, Asphodèle, Pirate, Forêt Vierge, and Au Fil de L'eau, and a complete assortment of dressing table, bath and handbag requisites featured at stores of distinction."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft, sweet, light floral bouquet fragrance for women with a dominant lily of the valley note. It was recommended to be worn by "sophisticated users of perfume." According to 1930s newspaper ads, in addition to the narcissus and lily of the valley, the fragrance was composed of over 90 other floral fragrances.

• Top notes: narcissus
• Middle notes: lily of the valley
• Base notes:

Bottles:

 Frosted glass bottle, squat and disk shaped, molded with a floral frieze along the middle, frosted stopper molded with a flower. Presented in a black and gold box. This bottle was also used for Lentheric's "Au Fil de L'Eau" perfume (with a green glass stopper). Stands 2.75" tall.

Extract was available in

• 1/2 oz
• 1 oz
• 2 oz
• 4 oz
• 8 oz

1929 Lentheric Perfume catalog page:

Also presented in a controlled bubble glass bottle, made in Czechoslovakia in 1935. This bottle can be found in different colors for different perfumes by Lentheric, cerulean blue for Miracle, softened rose for Lotus D'Or, green for Le Pirate, green for Au Fil de L'Eau, green for Foret Vierge, mirror clear for Asphodele, champagne for Tweed, and Numero Douze in amber. Bottle stands 4"  tall.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

A Bientot by Lentheric c1938

Launched in 1938, A Bientôt by Lentheric was a fragrance that carried a name both evocative and memorable. The phrase "A Bientôt," which translates from French to "See you soon," suggests a sentiment of farewell and anticipation, a promise of a future encounter. This choice of name subtly hints at a fragrance that is designed to leave a lingering impression, a scent that one would eagerly anticipate revisiting.

The name "A Bientôt" evokes images of elegance and sophistication, as well as a sense of temporary parting and the excitement of future reunions. It captures the essence of an encounter that is both memorable and fleeting, suggesting that the fragrance itself is something to be cherished and looked forward to. The emotions tied to this name are those of nostalgia and longing, wrapped in the allure of a fragrance that promises to leave a lasting mark.

In terms of scent, A Bientôt translates this evocative name into a complex olfactory experience. The perfume opens with a strong, cool lemony eau de cologne top note that is both refreshing and invigorating, providing a burst of citrus that is immediately striking. This vibrant opening transitions into a rich, heady floral heart, where the interplay of tobacco leaves with floral notes creates a distinctive and sophisticated character. The fragrance then settles into a dry, animalic base of tobacco leaf, which imparts a sense of depth and warmth, grounding the scent in a robust, sensual finish.

The late 1930s were a period of transition in the fragrance world, as the industry began to experiment with more diverse and innovative compositions. A Bientôt’s classification as a dry, floral tobacco fragrance for women was somewhat unconventional for its time, standing out with its bold blend of floral and tobacco elements. This scent reflects a trend towards more complex and daring fragrances, diverging from the more traditional and sweeter profiles that were common earlier in the decade. For women of the time, A Bientôt would have represented a sophisticated and modern choice, capturing the spirit of an era on the cusp of dramatic change in both fashion and fragrance.

Gardenia de Tahiti by Lentheric c1934

Gardenia de Tahiti by Lentheric was launched in 1934 in France. In USA by 1935.

Halley Perfume by Lentheric c1911

Launched in 1911, Halley Perfume by Lentheric was a fragrance that captured the spirit of a significant astronomical event, Halley's Comet, which was making a rare and dramatic appearance that year. The choice of the name "Halley Perfume" was a nod to this celestial phenomenon, evoking images of cosmic wonder and timeless beauty.

The term "Halley Perfume" immediately brings to mind the grandeur of the comet streaking across the night sky, leaving a luminous trail. It conjures a sense of marvel and the sublime, suggesting that the fragrance itself is something extraordinary and ephemeral. The comet’s association with rarity and celestial splendor infused the perfume with an air of exclusivity and elegance, making it a fitting tribute to such a spectacular event.

In scent, "Halley Perfume" would likely have been interpreted as a fragrance that embodies the celestial theme of its namesake. The perfume might feature luminous, sparkling notes that mimic the comet's brilliant appearance, perhaps with fresh, radiant top notes to capture the excitement of a cosmic event. A sophisticated blend of floral and exotic notes could represent the comet’s ethereal beauty, while a rich, lingering base might echo its enduring presence.

Women of the early 20th century, when Halley Perfume was introduced, would have been intrigued by this innovative and thematic choice of name. The early 1900s were a time of rapid change and fascination with the sciences, including astronomy. The comet's appearance was widely publicized and eagerly anticipated, making Halley Perfume a culturally relevant and exciting choice. For women of that era, this fragrance would have symbolized a blend of sophistication and modernity, reflecting both the scientific curiosity of the time and the allure of a fragrance inspired by a celestial event. The perfume's presentation in a Bohemian glass bottle engraved with a comet and its trail would have further enhanced its association with the grandeur and mystery of the cosmos, aligning perfectly with the era’s fascination with both the natural and the extraordinary.

 

Pink Party by Lentheric c1940

Released in 1940, Pink Party by Lentheric was a fragrance that captured the essence of its era with a name brimming with charm and festivity. The choice of "Pink Party" as the name was both evocative and strategic, designed to conjure images of elegance and joyous celebration.

The term "Pink Party" conveys a sense of light-hearted glamour and cheerful sophistication. The color pink, often associated with romance, femininity, and playfulness, immediately suggests a fragrance that is both charming and approachable. The word "Party" adds a festive element, hinting at a scent that would be perfect for social occasions and celebrations, reflecting the vibrant and exuberant spirit of the time.

In scent, "Pink Party" would likely be interpreted as a fragrance with a lively and engaging profile, perhaps featuring a blend of floral and fruity notes that evoke the freshness and fun of a joyous gathering. The perfume might open with bright, fruity top notes that capture attention, followed by a heart of delicate florals that mirror the elegance of a pink-themed celebration. The base would likely be soft and inviting, leaving a lasting impression reminiscent of the lingering warmth and happiness of a party.

The launch of Pink Party in 1940 came at a time when the world was on the brink of significant change. As the fragrance industry navigated the challenges of the late 1930s and the early 1940s, this perfume offered a touch of escapism and joy. During this period, many fragrances began to embrace lighter, more playful themes, reflecting a shift from the more opulent and heavy scents of the previous decades. Pink Party's name and likely composition would have appealed to women looking for a scent that embodied the elegance and excitement of social events, offering a brief, fragrant respite from the era's uncertainties.

Adam's Rib by Lentheric c1953

Launched in 1953, Adam's Rib by Lentheric emerged with a name both intriguing and evocative, steeped in biblical and cultural significance. The phrase "Adam's Rib" refers to the Biblical story of Eve being created from one of Adam’s ribs, symbolizing a deep, intrinsic connection between man and woman. This choice of name for the perfume suggests a celebration of feminine allure and a nod to a timeless, fundamental bond.

The name "Adam's Rib" conjures a variety of vivid images and emotions. It evokes the essence of creation and primal connection, hinting at something both ancient and eternally relevant. The perfume’s name implies a sense of deep-rooted sensuality and a connection to the foundational aspects of human nature, suggesting that its fragrance is meant to embody something both classic and deeply compelling.

In terms of scent, the name "Adam's Rib" would be interpreted as embodying an essence that is both rich and fundamentally appealing. The perfume, classified as a spicy aldehydic floral fougere, would translate this concept into a fragrance that combines warmth and sophistication with a touch of complexity. The dominant notes of jasmine and rose evoke a classic, opulent floral bouquet, while the aldehydic top notes add a sparkling, modern twist. The spiciness would contribute an element of intrigue and sensuality, aligning with the idea of something deeply rooted and profoundly engaging.

Confetti by Lentheric c1940

In 1940, Lentheric introduced a fragrance that carried a playful and celebratory name: "Confetti." The choice of this name was both evocative and strategic, capturing a sense of festivity and joy. "Confetti," derived from the Italian word for "confectionery" and commonly associated with small pieces of paper thrown during celebrations, suggests a sense of lightheartedness and whimsy. In the context of fragrance, the name "Confetti" conjures images of lively celebrations and joyous moments, a fitting reflection of the era's yearning for escapism and merriment during the tumultuous times of World War II.

The fragrance itself was characterized as a light, somewhat dry oriental chypre, which was a notable trend of the time. The chypre structure, known for its rich, complex base of moss, oak, and patchouli, was softened in "Confetti" with a more delicate touch. The perfume opens with a subtle freshness, leading to a dry, woody-mossy-leafy balsamic base that evokes a sophisticated, yet approachable, warmth. This blend creates an impression of understated elegance, aligning with the era's preference for fragrances that were both refined and evocative.

Women of the 1940s, navigating a world still shadowed by war, would have found "Confetti" to be a light and uplifting choice amidst more intense and heavy scents. Its resemblance to Helena Rubinstein’s "Heaven Sent," though weaker and less lasting, made it a suitable option for those seeking a hint of exotic allure without overwhelming their senses. The lighter, airy quality of "Confetti" offered a refreshing contrast to the richer, more opulent perfumes of the time, reflecting a shift towards more accessible and versatile fragrances that could lift the spirit during challenging times.

Overall, "Confetti" fit within the broader trends of the 1940s by offering a chic, yet light alternative to the dominant fragrances of the period. Its name and scent together crafted an image of celebratory elegance, making it a unique, yet fitting addition to the perfume market of its era.

Tweed by Lentheric c1933

Lentheric's decision to name their 1933 fragrance "Tweed" reflects a deliberate attempt to capture the essence of sophistication, durability, and timeless elegance associated with the fabric of the same name. The word "Tweed" is derived from the English language, specifically referencing the hardy, woolen cloth traditionally woven in Scotland. By choosing this name, Lentheric sought to evoke images of the British countryside, characterized by rolling hills, misty moors, and a heritage steeped in tradition. The name "Tweed" would have resonated with the refined, worldly woman of the time, conjuring a sense of comfort, resilience, and understated luxury.

The word "Tweed" itself brings to mind images of autumnal landscapes, hunting lodges, and the refined yet rugged charm of the English gentry. It evokes emotions of warmth, sophistication, and a connection to nature. In scent, "Tweed" would be interpreted as a fragrance that is both classic and complex, with a balance of fresh and earthy notes that mirror the tactile sensation of the fabric. The mossy fougère/chypre composition of the fragrance, with its distinctive herbal lavender note, would have been a perfect olfactory representation of the texture and depth of tweed fabric. The fragrance's fresh, flowery, and fruity top notes, followed by a classic floral heart and resting on a powdery base, would evoke the natural landscapes where tweed was traditionally worn—lush, green, and vibrant, yet grounded and enduring.

Women of the 1930s would have related to a perfume called "Tweed" as a symbol of refined taste and modern sophistication. The early 1930s were a period marked by a return to classic elegance in fashion and lifestyle, following the exuberance of the 1920s. Tweed as a fabric was not only practical and durable but also carried connotations of aristocratic leisure and outdoor pursuits. A woman wearing "Tweed" would have been seen as someone who appreciated tradition while also embracing a sense of independence and confidence—a reflection of the changing roles of women during this time.

Shanghai by Lentheric c1936

Shanghai by Lentheric, launched in 1936, carries an intriguing history and cultural resonance. The fragrance originally debuted as Cœur de Paris in 1911, but its renaming to Shanghai in 1936 was a significant shift. The choice of "Shanghai" as the new name was likely inspired by the city's status as a vibrant and exotic metropolis, brimming with mystery, allure, and a cosmopolitan flair. The word "Shanghai" itself is derived from Chinese, meaning "upon the sea," and it evokes images of bustling ports, rich trade, and a gateway to the East. During the early 20th century, Shanghai was seen as a symbol of modernity, glamour, and exoticism, a city where East met West in a fusion of cultures, styles, and sensibilities.

The name "Shanghai" would have conjured up a sense of adventure, luxury, and the allure of the unknown. It would have appealed to women seeking a fragrance that embodied sophistication and a touch of the exotic. For a woman in the 1930s, wearing a perfume named Shanghai could have been a way to express her cosmopolitan tastes, her yearning for travel, or her desire to capture some of the mysterious elegance associated with the Far East.

In terms of scent, the word "Shanghai" might evoke a complex blend of rich, warm notes with an exotic twist—perhaps an oriental floral composition with hints of spices, woods, and opulent florals like jasmine or rose. Such a fragrance would capture the essence of the city: a mix of the traditional and the modern, the familiar and the foreign, creating an intoxicating experience that transports the wearer to a far-off land.

The time period in which Shanghai was launched, the mid-1930s, was a significant era for perfumery. This was a time when many women were looking for bold, distinctive scents that mirrored the changing social landscape. The world was in the midst of the Art Deco movement, characterized by luxury, glamour, and a fascination with the exotic. Fragrances of the time often reflected these trends, with oriental and floral notes becoming increasingly popular. Shanghai's blend of oriental and floral elements was in line with this trend, yet it still stood out for its evocative name and the cultural imagery it inspired.

In summary, Shanghai by Lentheric was more than just a fragrance; it was a statement. It resonated with the adventurous spirit of the era, offering women a scent that was as intriguing and multifaceted as the city it was named after. It captured the essence of a time when the world was rapidly changing, and women were beginning to explore new identities, dreams, and desires.

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric c1946

Dark Brilliance, introduced by Lentheric in 1946, is a fragrance that encapsulates a sense of enigmatic allure and understated elegance. The name, which translates directly from English as "Dark Brilliance," conjures images of a luminous yet shadowy opulence. This evocative title suggests a perfume that embodies both mystery and sophistication, merging the concepts of darkness and light to create a scent that is both compelling and complex.

The term "Dark Brilliance" evokes a rich tapestry of imagery—perhaps a midnight sky strewn with stars or the soft glow of candlelight in an intimate, velvety setting. The juxtaposition of "dark" and "brilliance" suggests a fragrance that is both deep and radiant, offering a sensuous, multi-faceted experience. This contrast speaks to an allure that is as much about subtlety and depth as it is about boldness and impact.

In terms of scent, Dark Brilliance can be interpreted as a complex, enveloping fragrance with a warm, animalic base. Its composition features a heavy, sweet floral presence, with acacia prominently leading the bouquet. This sweetness is underpinned by a rich, ambery base that adds depth and warmth. The perfume's spicy and animalic undertones enhance its opulent character, creating a scent that feels both luxurious and intense.

Released shortly after World War II, Dark Brilliance emerged in a time when society was embracing a sense of renewal and sophistication. The late 1940s were marked by a fascination with glamour and elegance, and the fragrance market was ripe with creations that reflected this post-war exuberance. Dark Brilliance stood out with its bold, distinctive character, differentiating itself from the more restrained or purely floral fragrances of the era. Its heavy, sweet floral notes combined with a warm, spicy base made it a unique choice for women seeking a fragrance that was both exotic and deeply resonant. The perfume's opulent nature aligned with the era's burgeoning interest in luxurious and expressive scents, making it a memorable part of the fragrance landscape of the time.

Risqué Tout by Lentheric c1935

Risqué Tout by Lentheric: launched in 1935. The name means "Risk Everything!" in French. The perfume was marketed as "Tweed" in the USA. Risque Tout was the name used in Europe, Central and South America.

Lentheric Boursette Evening Bag c1936

Pampa Daily News, 1936:

"Lentheric's Evening Bag elegance. LENTHERIC has created "Boursette"—a dainty wisp of a bag to accompany you on festive occasions. Metallic threads weave a leafy tracery over a background of either white or black brocade. Fitted with double streamline vanity, matching lipstick, and petit flacon of perfume. Also comb and mirror. Complete — $10."

Harper's Bazaar - Volume 71, 1937:

 "Boursette". Envelope evening bag, in White or Black Lame, fitted with parfum Tweed, single Streamline Vanity and matching Lipstick $12.50."

Gay Gift Perfume Presentation c1944

Gay Gift was a perfume presentation from 1944. These were packaged in a tiny pale blue shadow-box, displaying a boutonniere that can be detached and worn on lapel is the Christmas gift item Lentheric featured for three miniature bottles of its leading perfumes, "Tweed," "A Beintot" and "Confetti."